Sunday, March 18, 2012

Things I've read today

Whilst scanning through a renowned color guru's Facebook page, I came across these comments, pertaining to permanent color.  And, I thought I'd share them and my reaction to them.

"Permanent color that faded in two weeks".  Apparently, this person still hasn't learned what's permanent about permanent hair color.  It's not the dye load, it's the lifting action that's permanent.  That being said, how you care for your newly colored hair is just as important as what you color it with.  If you're using the wrong shampoo and screaming hot water to wash your hair with, of course the color won't last.  However, if you're using sulfate-free shampoos, an acidic conditioner to close the cuticle, and moderate temperature water to wash & rinse with, you should have better success in maintaining your color between appointments.

"Organic" hair color:  Unless you are using good, old fashioned HENNA (the kind that turns hair orange and is used to tattoo your hands during sacred ceremonies of the Hindu faith), there isn't a hair color out there that is "organic"...which, by the way, is a non-regulated word used by manufacturers of various products to get you to purchase whatever it is.  It's a "buzz word".  Oh, and the other "by the way"??  If you look at things this way:  Things are either organic or inorganic.  Something that is "organic" is living matter, animal, or vegetable, carbon based.  Something that is "Inorganic" is non-living or mineral based.  Which means, basically, that all hair color is both organic and inorganic, depending upon it's ingredients.

"Lift and deposit in the same application"  This comment was said in wonder, like they've never heard of it before.  What planet are you from??  ALL permanent color, whether it's the "non-ammonia" or ammonia based color, lifts first, to create a base for the color to adhere to, then deposits the artificial color after.  Please get some education.

"Ammonia is effective because it's incredibly corrosive and extrordinarily destructive to the cuticle and sacrafices the hair's health and structural intregity".  This one is a double-edged sword.  With multiple applications, YES, ammonia is corrosive and destructive and will definitely sacrafice the hair health and structural integrity.  Ammonia continues to swell the hair shaft, therefore pushing the cuticle open even further, making your hair feel dry.  Because this cuticle is open, it also allows the dyeload to "pile up" in the hair shaft, making the strand darker with each application.  That's why you'll see people with lighter colored hair at the top of the head and nearly BLACK hair at the ends.  This is NOT the trendy "Ombre" look, my friends.  THIS is damanged hair.

Something that also happens with color build up (and this even happens with demi and semi permanent colors) is that the hair will break off after a period of time.  Hair can only take so much of a "beating" before it just gives up.  And, this can happen both at home and with a professional.  It's a bit hard to avoid.  Careful formulation goes a long way to keeping the intregity of the hair intact.  Careful application of color goes a long way, also.  Don't overlap the product.  Don't "run" the permanent color through the ends of the hair beyond a virgin application of color to hair that's never been colored before.  And educate your clients on how to properly take care of their hair.

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