There are times when I wish I could just sit and people watch, all day long. The things I see are just too whatever to make up (stupid, silly, etc.) I was in Walmart the other day (not the store I actually work in) and noticed a cashier's hair color and eyebrows. Sigh.
She's probably around my age (43), maybe a titch younger or older, kind of hard to tell. Anyway, she's got those tell tale bags under her eyes, which tells me she's not living a "clean" life (cigarettes, drinking, idiots in her life). Otherwise, her skin was pretty clear (bonus in her favor). Her hair color is quite dark (artificially so), and her eyebrows are plucked with a poor shape and practically non-existent, which makes her facial features stand out in an unattractive way. I'm not saying I'm the most beautiful person on the planet...to the contrary, I usually look very "relaxed" when I'm out and about on my days off. However, this person was at WORK....she needs a make over, STAT!!
First thing I'd do...counsel her to step away from the tweezers. Get her to let the poor things grow back in so we can actually see the shape they're supposed to be and work on them to get them there. There's nothing worse than looking permanently surprised....Once the shape has been established, and getting her used to how they look, she will notice a HUGE difference in how people perceive what she looks like. I know, it sounds shallow, but it's true. A well groomed brow makes all the difference!! (just look at anyone who gets their unibrow taken care of....what a huge difference!!)
Then, her color. Right now, the only thing that can be done is to A) some very well placed highlights to lighten up her overall color. Continue to highlight her for at least 3 total visits (spread out over the course of at least a year). While these highlights are going on, taking care of her regrowth is very important. I'd be using a lighter color, even if it's only one shade lighter, to move things along, making sure it all blends accordingly. Once the highlights are plentiful, I would then start using a tinted glaze over the whole thing to bring the highlights to a newer, lighter shade of brown, which would be infinitely more pleasing than the harsh dark brown she currently has.
The one thing I'd explain to her is that this process takes TIME. It cannot and should not be done in one visit. The first visit would be a partial highlight to lighten up the over all color....fine highlights, spread out so there's a subtle change, making sure the highlights are placed so there is no obvious line of demarcation. Depending upon how much grey is being covered, I may not touch the regrowth areas, or I might start the process of making her overall color a half shade lighter.
The next appointment, I'd add another layer of highlights, the same amount as before, placed slightly closer together, to break up the color even more, and continue to touch up her regrowth with the new overall formula. The third appointment (the highlight appointments should be placed roughly 2-3 months apart. The retouch of her regrowth should be every month to ensure good coverage of any grey hair) would be the final application of highlights, still placed so there is no obvious line of demarcation. At this appointment, I would match up a glaze color to coordinate with her new base color, lightening up her hair overall without damaging her hair. The glaze will be a demi permanent color, which contains NO ammonia of any kind. This will close down the cuticle and make the hair appear shiny and smooth, which equals healthy hair!!
Is this an expensive process, over all?? Yes. Is it worth the time and money?? Absolutely. Lightening up that harsh hair color does a number of things, most importantly, it makes you look younger than you are. The darker the hair color, the older and harsher you look. No matter how pretty you are, you will look HARSH and OLD with dark hair. Why do you think all the kids want to dye their hair jet black???
Tuesday, February 14, 2012
Thursday, February 9, 2012
Never trust the formula in front of you...
A lesson that gets taught, A LOT in this industry is to never trust the formula in front of you. Here's the scenario:
You've got a client in your chair. Their last color service was not performed by you. You go get their color card, check the formula, mix it up, apply it, time it, rinse it....it's too light. What happened?? You scramble & reapply the color, using a darker formula. PHEW!!
What happened: You trusted that what the person did before you was accurate.
In the case of last night, it was. But it was nearly a year ago that this nice lady received a color in our salon.
What didn't happen: A thorough consultation and color analysis.
What else happened: This nice lady has been coloring her hair at home and decided to treat herself to a salon service. What should have taken a couple of hours, tops (including hair cut & style along with the color) took 3 hours because the color had to be reapplied...at no cost to the client.
This was Tina's episode of "The Mad Hairdresser" last night (Mad as in crazy, not angry). In Tina's defense, she was MOBBED last night. I only found out about it because I went in at the end of the night to get my color done! It's one of those "honest" mistakes....however, it does tend to stick in the client's mind that this hairdresser screwed up and maybe I shouldn't go to her again. Hopefully, that won't happen.
You've got a client in your chair. Their last color service was not performed by you. You go get their color card, check the formula, mix it up, apply it, time it, rinse it....it's too light. What happened?? You scramble & reapply the color, using a darker formula. PHEW!!
What happened: You trusted that what the person did before you was accurate.
In the case of last night, it was. But it was nearly a year ago that this nice lady received a color in our salon.
What didn't happen: A thorough consultation and color analysis.
What else happened: This nice lady has been coloring her hair at home and decided to treat herself to a salon service. What should have taken a couple of hours, tops (including hair cut & style along with the color) took 3 hours because the color had to be reapplied...at no cost to the client.
This was Tina's episode of "The Mad Hairdresser" last night (Mad as in crazy, not angry). In Tina's defense, she was MOBBED last night. I only found out about it because I went in at the end of the night to get my color done! It's one of those "honest" mistakes....however, it does tend to stick in the client's mind that this hairdresser screwed up and maybe I shouldn't go to her again. Hopefully, that won't happen.
Tuesday, February 7, 2012
Updates, bulletins as they happen!
So, I got a phone call yesterday....WE HAVE AN AREA SUPERVISOR!! WOO HOO!!!
Sorry....just a little excited about this...
I got to speak to Zoe for about 5 minutes. I can't wait to actually have a "sit down" with her!!! In the interim, I plan on having a whole bunch of notes to refer to, when the time comes. We have LOTS to talk about!!!
Sorry....just a little excited about this...
I got to speak to Zoe for about 5 minutes. I can't wait to actually have a "sit down" with her!!! In the interim, I plan on having a whole bunch of notes to refer to, when the time comes. We have LOTS to talk about!!!
Saturday, February 4, 2012
Corrective Color...
So, this client walks in yesterday, after calling us in a panic, because she colored her hair at home, and it didn't come out the way she wanted it and she wants us to fix it. Oh, goodie. On the one hand, I love a challenge. On the other, great, what the heck is coming in.
Well, she walked in, and I saw who it was. Tanya has been coming in since we opened. We've all had her and we've all tried to talk her into getting her color done here so we can minimize the damage that's been done. Tanya's hair is both thin and fine. She wants it long, it's already pin straight, and she continually damages it by doing her color at home. The stupid thing is that she finally figured out how to get the right color combination in her hair, on her own, and then she let her friend wreck her hair!!
So, here's what she did. She decided, a while back, to add a small bit of warmth to her hair, in the form of red highlights. Just a little bit, and just in the bottom nape section of her hair. She liked it so much, she decided to do more. This is were the fun begins. Her friend pulled her hair through a cap. Because she didn't realize, while pulling her hair through, that she has NO HAIR, the friend managed to pull ALL her hair through the cap. And proceeded to paint the red color onto her hair.
When Tanya came in yesterday, her hair looked kind of fun....like fire, really....However, she didn't like the color and wanted it stripped out. Well, because I know the condition of her hair, I refused to strip the color out. And I explained why...her hair will disintegrate and break off. So, we came to the conclusion, together, that she needed to darken her hair to cover up all the red.
I also explained to her (while I was finishing up my perm client, who she wanted me to ditch to deal with her hot mess) that since the red is a dominant color, it's going to hang around for a long time. And, no matter what I do to her hair, it will fade and that red will come right back through. She wants her blonde back in a big way. All I would commit to is that it will be a LONG time before we can safely take her back to blonde. She truly needs to leave her hair ALONE.
I highly doubt she will, though.
Well, she walked in, and I saw who it was. Tanya has been coming in since we opened. We've all had her and we've all tried to talk her into getting her color done here so we can minimize the damage that's been done. Tanya's hair is both thin and fine. She wants it long, it's already pin straight, and she continually damages it by doing her color at home. The stupid thing is that she finally figured out how to get the right color combination in her hair, on her own, and then she let her friend wreck her hair!!
So, here's what she did. She decided, a while back, to add a small bit of warmth to her hair, in the form of red highlights. Just a little bit, and just in the bottom nape section of her hair. She liked it so much, she decided to do more. This is were the fun begins. Her friend pulled her hair through a cap. Because she didn't realize, while pulling her hair through, that she has NO HAIR, the friend managed to pull ALL her hair through the cap. And proceeded to paint the red color onto her hair.
When Tanya came in yesterday, her hair looked kind of fun....like fire, really....However, she didn't like the color and wanted it stripped out. Well, because I know the condition of her hair, I refused to strip the color out. And I explained why...her hair will disintegrate and break off. So, we came to the conclusion, together, that she needed to darken her hair to cover up all the red.
I also explained to her (while I was finishing up my perm client, who she wanted me to ditch to deal with her hot mess) that since the red is a dominant color, it's going to hang around for a long time. And, no matter what I do to her hair, it will fade and that red will come right back through. She wants her blonde back in a big way. All I would commit to is that it will be a LONG time before we can safely take her back to blonde. She truly needs to leave her hair ALONE.
I highly doubt she will, though.
Monday, January 23, 2012
Highlights & Lowlights....
So, I was on the Smartstyles Facebook page the other day, and came across an angry parent, who posted pictures on HER facebook page regarding the color job her daughter received. Once I looked at the pictures, I could immediately tell what went wrong, all the way around.
Here's what happened: Client went in, with level 6-7 hair, wanting bleach highlights and red low lights. Sounds pretty simple, right?? Well, it is, if you know what you're doing and if you're up on the current education. By the looks of this color job, I'd say the stylist wasn't up on the current education
Highlights were done with bleach, pretty straight foreward. The only mistake I could see was that the stylist should have used a lower volume developer, so the processing was slow & steady, to keep the damage to a minimum. The red low lights?? Well, that's where the "fun" begins.
To start with, permanent color was used. How could I tell?? The regrowth area were a nice, vibrant color, then ends were washed out. Problem #1. Demi permanent color should have been used instead for a deep, rich color.
Problem #2: When mom dragged teenage daughter back to the salon to get her low lights "fixed", the stylist should have gone back in with a similar, if not the same formula in demi permanent color, and picked through the hair to locate as much of the red as possible to go over it again, to intensify the color. This also didn't happen. More of the permanent color was used.
The end result?? The girl's hair faded to a weird pinkish color. Her hair looks FRIED, too.
What should have happened (if it didn't already): A THOROUGH consultation, to determine what color was desired. Then, if we're dealing with a relatively inexperienced stylist, some assistance from a more experienced stylist to help formulate. Also, a conversation with the client (and client's parent) about the fact that reds fade the quickest, so what to expect should have been part of the conversation.
What to expect: Because "red" has a large dye molecule, it is the quickest to fade because each molecule covers a much larger area than molecules for blonde or brown. So, the rich, vibrant color will FADE to something weird, relatively quickly. To help combat this, using the right color safe (sulfate free) shampoo or smoothing shampoo (which closes down the cuticle, keeping the color intact) along with washing the hair in TEPID water (hot water pushes the color out faster) will go a long way to keeping the hair color intact. IF you're going to insist on washing your hair in the hottest water imaginable, (and you're in the shower) get your hair washed and conditioned, pinned up out of the way, and GET YOUR HEAD OUT OF THE WATER. The easiest way to do this?? Turn around and face the water spray. Usually, I'll leave the conditioner on my hair, pin it up, finish my shower, then drop my hair down at the last minute to rinse it before I get out of the shower. Doing all of this ensures my red lasts as long as possible. Works every time.
Reds are difficult to work with, from a client point of view. They require a lot of TLC in order to last as long as possible. If you're not willing to put in the care that must be involved, reds aren't for you.
Here's what happened: Client went in, with level 6-7 hair, wanting bleach highlights and red low lights. Sounds pretty simple, right?? Well, it is, if you know what you're doing and if you're up on the current education. By the looks of this color job, I'd say the stylist wasn't up on the current education
Highlights were done with bleach, pretty straight foreward. The only mistake I could see was that the stylist should have used a lower volume developer, so the processing was slow & steady, to keep the damage to a minimum. The red low lights?? Well, that's where the "fun" begins.
To start with, permanent color was used. How could I tell?? The regrowth area were a nice, vibrant color, then ends were washed out. Problem #1. Demi permanent color should have been used instead for a deep, rich color.
Problem #2: When mom dragged teenage daughter back to the salon to get her low lights "fixed", the stylist should have gone back in with a similar, if not the same formula in demi permanent color, and picked through the hair to locate as much of the red as possible to go over it again, to intensify the color. This also didn't happen. More of the permanent color was used.
The end result?? The girl's hair faded to a weird pinkish color. Her hair looks FRIED, too.
What should have happened (if it didn't already): A THOROUGH consultation, to determine what color was desired. Then, if we're dealing with a relatively inexperienced stylist, some assistance from a more experienced stylist to help formulate. Also, a conversation with the client (and client's parent) about the fact that reds fade the quickest, so what to expect should have been part of the conversation.
What to expect: Because "red" has a large dye molecule, it is the quickest to fade because each molecule covers a much larger area than molecules for blonde or brown. So, the rich, vibrant color will FADE to something weird, relatively quickly. To help combat this, using the right color safe (sulfate free) shampoo or smoothing shampoo (which closes down the cuticle, keeping the color intact) along with washing the hair in TEPID water (hot water pushes the color out faster) will go a long way to keeping the hair color intact. IF you're going to insist on washing your hair in the hottest water imaginable, (and you're in the shower) get your hair washed and conditioned, pinned up out of the way, and GET YOUR HEAD OUT OF THE WATER. The easiest way to do this?? Turn around and face the water spray. Usually, I'll leave the conditioner on my hair, pin it up, finish my shower, then drop my hair down at the last minute to rinse it before I get out of the shower. Doing all of this ensures my red lasts as long as possible. Works every time.
Reds are difficult to work with, from a client point of view. They require a lot of TLC in order to last as long as possible. If you're not willing to put in the care that must be involved, reds aren't for you.
Wednesday, January 11, 2012
Plotting and Planning
I do a lot of plotting & planning in my life. When it comes to hair color, I MUST plot & plan--otherwise, your color doesn't come out as it should. When I finish your color, and I see the results of my efforts, sometimes I plot & plan for the next time you come in, so I can tweak the formula.
I'm also plotting & planning how to spend my tax money when I get it back (realize I haven't even received all the necessary paperwork to start this process). My income has increased, which means the few benefits I've received from the state have decreased. Therefore, what used to be (sorta) "disposable" income is no longer that. So, when my tax money comes back, a portion of it will go towards purchasing the sundry items that I need in order for my household to function.
Such as: Paper towel, toilet paper, laundry supplies, cat supplies, dish soap, sponges. I'm also spending a chunk on the car, if needed. The suspension type stuff (shocks, struts, springs) need a look-see to make sure they're not faulty, and my exhaust needs a look at, also. A chunk will go towards my latest educational needs. Michael Cole has a bunch of stuff I'm wanting, David Velasco has a second set of books that I want. And, of course, the child's birthday is coming in March. Since she's the only child I'll EVER have, her birthday is always a big thing. Birthday parties, for me, stopped when I was about 10 years old. I had sleep overs after that. Katie will have birthday parties until she tells me to stop. (which I don't think she'll do) And, I'm due for some new clothing, as well. My black shirts I wear to work are starting to look greenish. And, my pants are wearing OUT. I need new shoes for work, too. And new sneakers for walking as well as banging around. So, as you can see, my money is always well spent. Oh, yeah...vehicle registration and my cosmetology license will be up for renewal, too.
What are you plotting and planning??
I'm also plotting & planning how to spend my tax money when I get it back (realize I haven't even received all the necessary paperwork to start this process). My income has increased, which means the few benefits I've received from the state have decreased. Therefore, what used to be (sorta) "disposable" income is no longer that. So, when my tax money comes back, a portion of it will go towards purchasing the sundry items that I need in order for my household to function.
Such as: Paper towel, toilet paper, laundry supplies, cat supplies, dish soap, sponges. I'm also spending a chunk on the car, if needed. The suspension type stuff (shocks, struts, springs) need a look-see to make sure they're not faulty, and my exhaust needs a look at, also. A chunk will go towards my latest educational needs. Michael Cole has a bunch of stuff I'm wanting, David Velasco has a second set of books that I want. And, of course, the child's birthday is coming in March. Since she's the only child I'll EVER have, her birthday is always a big thing. Birthday parties, for me, stopped when I was about 10 years old. I had sleep overs after that. Katie will have birthday parties until she tells me to stop. (which I don't think she'll do) And, I'm due for some new clothing, as well. My black shirts I wear to work are starting to look greenish. And, my pants are wearing OUT. I need new shoes for work, too. And new sneakers for walking as well as banging around. So, as you can see, my money is always well spent. Oh, yeah...vehicle registration and my cosmetology license will be up for renewal, too.
What are you plotting and planning??
Tuesday, January 10, 2012
The Legacy is over...
At one point, there was a salon around here that everyone flocked to. They were the premier stylists in the area. Their education and expertise was unparalleled. I was lucky enough (in some ways) to work for this salon as a receptionist. It's where I finally felt like I belonged, and I've learned so much from all of my experiences there.
Notice how that paragraph is in the past tense?? So is that salon. On Saturday, December 31st, this salon became history. Being that I was on the inside track for a long time, it wasn't a complete surprise to me. When the owner was alive, he was clearly the business mind behind everything they did. When he past away, his wife and son tried to step up to the plate and continue where he left off. Nine years later, they are closed.
While I worked there, (the last time) there were some MAJOR differences between management styles. He ran a tight ship. Everyone knew what was expected of them and everyone worked as a team. Of course, there were hiccups along the way. Not everyone always got along with each other, and he was notorious for having it out with someone on the salon floor, including his wife. (it was embarrassing to be a witness to these things. I always felt so bad for the person he cornered)
At one point, there were a total of 19 people working in this one salon, including 3 receptionists. It was a wild, crazy time. Were there underhanded shenanigans going on?? Sure. There's nothing quite like being set up (by the person who lobbied hard to get you a job there) so they can fire you. But, it was still a fabulous learning experience. I actually worked there a total of 3 times, equalling just under 4 years . It's where I got bit by the hairdressing bug in a big way.
When I went back the last time, it was very different. His wife ran everything loosey goosey. Suddenly, it was okay to come to work in jeans, as long as you were dressed up. (which felt WEIRD...I did it exactly once. Never did it again.) The person who was established as Salon Manager was probably the worst person for the job. She was a back stabbing tattletale. Not to mention one of the biggest ass-kissers I'd ever met, in my life. Between her and the owner's son (who had NO CLUE) what he was doing, they both managed to run the salon into the ground. And, lord knows, the owner's wife did everything she could to salvage that business, including mortgage her house to death and spend through all her retirement savings. At 67 years old, she's having to start over and still work as much as she can, just to keep her head above water. I don't envy her one bit.
What does this mean for me?? Nothing, really. I was a part of the history of that place. And all my experiences there, both good and bad, have made me the stylist/manager that I am, both good and bad.
Notice how that paragraph is in the past tense?? So is that salon. On Saturday, December 31st, this salon became history. Being that I was on the inside track for a long time, it wasn't a complete surprise to me. When the owner was alive, he was clearly the business mind behind everything they did. When he past away, his wife and son tried to step up to the plate and continue where he left off. Nine years later, they are closed.
While I worked there, (the last time) there were some MAJOR differences between management styles. He ran a tight ship. Everyone knew what was expected of them and everyone worked as a team. Of course, there were hiccups along the way. Not everyone always got along with each other, and he was notorious for having it out with someone on the salon floor, including his wife. (it was embarrassing to be a witness to these things. I always felt so bad for the person he cornered)
At one point, there were a total of 19 people working in this one salon, including 3 receptionists. It was a wild, crazy time. Were there underhanded shenanigans going on?? Sure. There's nothing quite like being set up (by the person who lobbied hard to get you a job there) so they can fire you. But, it was still a fabulous learning experience. I actually worked there a total of 3 times, equalling just under 4 years . It's where I got bit by the hairdressing bug in a big way.
When I went back the last time, it was very different. His wife ran everything loosey goosey. Suddenly, it was okay to come to work in jeans, as long as you were dressed up. (which felt WEIRD...I did it exactly once. Never did it again.) The person who was established as Salon Manager was probably the worst person for the job. She was a back stabbing tattletale. Not to mention one of the biggest ass-kissers I'd ever met, in my life. Between her and the owner's son (who had NO CLUE) what he was doing, they both managed to run the salon into the ground. And, lord knows, the owner's wife did everything she could to salvage that business, including mortgage her house to death and spend through all her retirement savings. At 67 years old, she's having to start over and still work as much as she can, just to keep her head above water. I don't envy her one bit.
What does this mean for me?? Nothing, really. I was a part of the history of that place. And all my experiences there, both good and bad, have made me the stylist/manager that I am, both good and bad.
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