Learning

Tiffany expects a lot from herself.  Unfortunately, she's got that "thing" that all new hairdressers have:  I just graduated from school, I know everything!!  And, consequently, she's made a couple of colossal mistakes because of it.

When you're in beauty school, particularly the school we all went to, you're taught "to the test" so you can pass your state boards.  Consequently, some of the education they receive is a bit outdated.

The other thing that tends to happen is that while we're taught to check the texture of a client's hair (fine, medium, coarse), we're not necessarily taught how to take that into consideration when formulating for someone.

Case in point:  Tiff had a client yesterday with thick, LONG curly, medium to coarse VIRGIN red hair, level 7.  She wanted the underneath part of her hair (from occipital down) to be a bright gold color.  So, Tiffany decided that 9G + gold booster + blonding creme + 30 volume would do the job.  Didn't do a bloody thing.  Here's why:

The higher the level of hair color, the less pigment the color actually has.  Therefore, the deposit of color won't be there.  Which is why she put the gold booster in, to try to give the color some depth.  The blonding creme was to give it additional boost to make her hair lift.

When she called me to ask for help, she was quite irritated with the whole process.  She did the first formula, nothing.  Then, she did 9A (have no idea why she chose ash) and 40 volume, still nothing.  And she couldn't understand why.  So, I asked her, again, for the level, texture, condition of her hair.  What happened is that she expected hair color to do the job of bleach, which it's NOT designed to do.  Then, adding the second hair color formula did lift it a bit more, but still not enough.  Again, she couldn't figure out why.  "Tiff---you're asking hair color to do the job of bleach.  Not only that, but color doesn't lift color predictably".  You could almost hear her smack her forehead.

Here's the formula that actually worked:  Lightener + 40 volume, 1:2 ratio.  (which the manufacturer will tell you is a big no no...the only way I know of to keep the product pliable)  Separate the entire section into two parts, mix one batch for the first section, then mix a second batch for the second section, same formula (to keep the product fresh and effective).  Cap it to keep it from drying out, and put her under the dryer (which, normally, I don't encourage) for 30 minutes (warming up the dryer before hand), checking it every 5 to 10 minutes, wiping away a small bit in a different place each time to check the lift.  Make sure to note on her card exactly how long it took to lift, so we'll know for next time.  Worked like a charm!

What I also explained to Tiffany: When the hair is not fine or baby fine (her hair & my hair), the cuticle is thicker, therefore harder to break through.  You've also got virgin hair, which has an even tighter cuticle to try & break through.  Therefore, you need to use a stronger product to get the job done.  Using a product meant to lift 1 or 2 levels (which would have been fine, under optimal conditions) on hair that isn't medium to fine in texture just will not work.  Period.

I've started sharing some of my education (the books) with the girls, to help them along.  Unfortunately, neither Tiffany nor Lynn are big on reading.  I asked Tiffany last night if she'd read any of the last bunch of stuff I gave her.  It took her a minute to say "I've read little bits".  Darling, you need to read the whole thing.  Break it up and read it in bits, but READ IT.  I'm also going to make copies of the exposed pigment chart that I have and post it in the dispensary so these issues (hopefully) quit happening.

While you need to learn to walk before you can run,  jumping in over your head is NEVER a good idea.  Tiffany found this out, the hard way.