Box Color

Box color has a bad reputation. I see, on a regular basis, the devastation box color winds up causing because people don't understand what they're messing with. Every single person I've come across, in my chair, with a science experiment on their head has said the same thing. "I dyed it too dark, then tried to lighten it up with a lighter color. Now I've got this mess" or something relatively similar. So, I've started, as part of my education in general, experimenting with box color. What I have to remember is that I can't approach it like a colorist...I have to approach it as a general consumer, reading the directions and following them...which is what happens by the time I see them in my chair. How I've prepared for this: I've gone through my collection of hair (yes, I have a hair collection...plastic shoe boxes full of lunch bags with hair in them, all categorized and ready to go), determining which hair is good for the new way I do swatches, and which is too short (needs to be a minimum of 5 inches long in order to be usable, however, some of it, like grey hair, I'll make an exception so I can use it!!). Then, I started actually making the swatches, which is pretty easy compared to how I used to do it, and it involves duct tape. Lay a long strip (at least 24 inches long) out on the counter, roll the sections of hair onto the tape, making a thin layer of hair and pressing it into the tape so it sticks, going from one end of the tape to the other. Lay another piece of duct tape (get the cheap stuff from the dollar store...it's wicked sticky!), pressing it down firmly to stick to the hair. Measure off 4 inch sections, then cut them. Then cut small pieces of duct tape to enclose the cut ends so the swatch doesn't fall apart, and viola! (sorry, I don't know how to get the accent mark in there properly..) you have a functioning hair swatch. Some of them are quite long, and those I use for creating porosity issues, so you can effectively see what the product does on various stages of trashed hair. And some of them are fairly short, 4 inches long or shorter, which will just show how the hair color changes the hair. Welcome to my world. Creating the porosity swatches takes a fair amount of time...and it's done like this: One inch from the top of the swatch, apply a high lift color (should be a blonde one for dark hair, dark one for blonde hair, for contrast) and 40 volume developer (high test, if you will)to the entire length of the hair strand and let process (sit) for 40 minutes. Rinse off, let air dry. You'll notice, when you comb through this hair, that it doesn't really feel or sound (and sound is important later on) any different. This is stage 2 porosity, stage 1 being virgin hair. Next, once the swatch is dry, move another inch down from the first application, and apply another application of high lift color and 40 volume, all the way down the strand, and let process for 30 minutes. Rinse off, let dry. Again, combing through this hair, there is a definite color change, and it's slightly more trashed, but not terribly so. You won't hear much yet. This is stage 3 porosity...the level we professionals generally deal with on a regular basis. Now, you get to apply, again an inch or so down from the last application of color, lightening powder (bleach) and 40 volume, all down the length of the strand, and let process for 60 minutes, making sure to cover the swatch with extra foil so the lightener doesn't dry out. Rinse, let dry. When you comb through this one, you'll actually HEAR the comb pass through the hair strand. This is stage 4 porosity. And it's not pretty. When people have been coloring their hair at home for a long time, following the directions in the box, or they have a hairdresser who does things "old school", this is the porosity I run into. It's not pretty, but it is salvageable. With a fair amount of work. This hair will feel "odd" when it's wet...fragile and delicate, tangles pretty easily, and when dry, it will seem "dry" to your hands. (under redundant, it says "see redundant") For the last application, again an inch from the last one, you're going to use the lightening powder and 20 volume (think unleaded gas), apply it to the ends of the hair, and let process, covered up so it doesn't dry out, for 3 hours. Rinse, let dry. When you rinse this one, you'll notice the hair feels slimy and it looks clear when it's wet. When it dries, it will appear as if it's got styling gel in it...it's clumpy and stiff. When you pull a comb through this hair (when dry) you will hear the comb go through the hair...it is quite loud and sounds like you're combing through tangles, even with tons of conditioner on the hair to try to compensate for it. This is stage 5 porosity...loving referred to as HOT MESS. More often than not, your hair will get to stage 5 before you give in and go to the salon to get something done. Naturally, you want to have your color done. If your hair is quite long, you're not willing to sacrifice a whole lot of length to help fix the damage, which becomes a major discussion between you and the stylist. The best way to deal with stage 4 & 5 hair is to cut it off. You can use a demi permanent color over the top of it, which will help close down the cuticle (which is what is causing all the noise and mess, a thoroughly damaged cuticle), and use smoothing shampoo, conditioner, styling products, stay away from heated hair appliances as much as you can, but all of this is just a band-aid, not a cure. The only CURE is to cut the hair off. Which isn't always feasible. I'm also quick to let the client know it's NOT their fault the damage happened. All they were doing was following the directions on the box. There isn't enough room on the piece of paper for the manufacturer of the hair color to explain all of these details to them, such as JUST DO THE ROOTS and have someone help you, since you can't see the back of your head!!! And, DON'T drag, run, apply the color to the ends for the last 5 minutes of developing time, because it really doesn't "freshen up" the color...it will eventually DARKEN the color and create more damage. Which will force you into the salon. Which may be what the manufacturers are looking for in the first place.