Color Correction

So, today is the day Stella gets her hair fixed.  I've got the formulas (and there are multiple formulas, trust me) all written down and ready to go.  It's going to be a long, tedious process, as all color corrections will be.

What happened:  Stella showed Rita a picture of what she wanted done.  Stella is quite soft spoken (she has a speech impediment), so, I can just about guarantee that Rita didn't actually HEAR what Stella was saying.  What Stella liked about the picture was the chunky highlights that were spaced far apart.  What Rita did was not that.  AT ALL.

Rita wound up attempting to put the red color that was in the picture (which Stella didn't want, yet didn't stop Rita from doing it) in Stella's hair.  The front of Stella's hair is WHITE.  The back of her hair is grey.  She's roughly 85% grey/white...and there was no accommodation made for this.  We didn't have the correct lightening product (order hadn't come in), so, instead of waiting, they plow right on ahead, using what we had.  Which was Kaliedocolors.  A 10 minute highlighting system which uses heat to attempt to accomplish what it says it can, give highlights with an automatic toner in it to get rid of any brass that shows up.  Since Rita was using it as actual lightener, she didn't take into consideration that she would need to turn up the volume (use 40 vol developer instead of the 10 or 20 volume the product calls for).  So, what Stella got was some seriously WARM looking highlights.  Which, next to the cool brown color that's already in her hair....YUCK.

So, to accommodate for the white in her hair:  All formulas involving deposit of actual color MUST have "N" in it.  Period.  You have to put back what is no longer there in order for the color you actually want to "take".  Stella talked to me, in depth, over the course of a couple of different days, the color she'd had in her hair before she came to work with us.  They'd used Goldwell color, which is known to be a muddier color line.  The formula for her dark was 6NN & 7G.  NN for covering her grey/white, and the G to make it a more natural looking brown, because the NN is really dull in color.  And their levels are off from everyone else's.  6NN &7G (which makes 6.5NNG) in anybody else's line would have been entirely too light for Stella's hair, as she's a naturally dark person, and her hair used to be a level 3. (1 being jet black, 10 being pale blonde, 3 is pretty darn dark).  So, my formula is quite a bit different.

Her ends that are dark will be covered by Color Sync extra coverage 5NW, to take the place of the 6NN & 7G.  Her regrowth will be 6MM & 5N Socolor, to match.  This formula will also go over the actual red that was put into her hair.  It will still be a tad warm when it fades, but no where near as bad as it is right now.  She also wants a lot of her previous highlights covered up.  This formula will also do that (just the Color Sync one, though), and when it fades, it will still be in the brown family.  I may actually take pictures of this one!!