When someone receives highlights on a regular basis, they run the risk of having what's called "blonde build up" What is blonde build up, you might ask?? Well, it's when you continually highlight your hair until it's mostly blonde and next to nothing for your natural color left peeking through all those highlights. It happens, and it's easy to correct. The trick is to formulate correctly!
Example: Client came in yesterday for her highlights. She had never sat in my chair before and was very concerned about the work I would be doing in her hair. She had previously worked with Tina, a total of 3 times, and struggled with Tina to get across what she wanted, and how she wanted it done. What she wants is to have "beachy blonde highlights" without being turned into a "bleached blonde". What this means to me: She wants pale blonde highlights, all over her head, but her natural color still dominating her color.
What happened the first time: Kaleidocolors neutral & 10 volume in the back, same thing & 20 volume in the front. She's naturally a level 7. What this did for her is gave her slightly lighter color in her hair, almost a "breaking the base" color (I'll explain that one in a bit), which also means she couldn't see her highlights very well. So, she came back to get them fixed, and Kaleidocolors neutral with 30 volume in the back, Kaliedocolors neutral & 40 volume in the front. Which got her sort of where she wanted to go.
The (officially) 2nd time she came back (when they'd grown out), V-lights & 20 volume in the back, same & 40 volume in the front. So, she's back to "beachy blonde". That was in June.
Jump ahead to yesterday. I go through and highlight her hair again, using the V-lights formulas. What I noticed when she was done and dry is blonde buildup beginning to happen. So, I recommended the next time she comes in (and wrote it down, too!) that a few, "randomly" placed low lights, in either her natural color, or a color between natural and the blonde, be put back in so she doesn't wind up looking like a bleached blonde. And, she loved the idea as well as the job I had done for her yesterday. PHEW!!
Now..."Breaking the base": Sometimes, usually when you have someone with really dark hair that wants really pale highlights, it can work in their favor to "break the base" to give them a more flattering color, over all. If you're not careful, and you don't break the base, you can take that dark haired person and make them look like they have a ton of grey hair with all those highlights!
What "breaking the base" does: lighten the hair 1/2 to one full level lighter than the natural without bringing the warm tones through. It comes in handy, but it has to be done right, or there's corrective color hell to pay. If you've got virgin hair, using the correct level of hair color with 10 volume should do the job. If not, a "soap cap" (lightener, developer & shampoo mixture) should also do the trick. The hardest part is watching the product to make sure it doesn't take the color too far in the wrong direction! Once the desired shade is reached, you can rinse it out, wash it up, dry it, then highlight over the top of it, and you'll get a beautiful color.
Friday, November 30, 2012
Saturday, November 24, 2012
"You're not hearing me"
Black Friday is typically a dead day in the salon. Everyone is far too busy shopping for those "deals" to get their hair done. (as evidenced by the client that blew me off for the mall yesterday). So, I was standing at the desk, doing mindless paperwork when a potential client walked up to me, asking me questions about her hair color.
The scenario: She's older (maybe late 40's-early 50"s), long hair, gold at the top, white blonde from about the ears down to the middle of her back. She's been coloring her hair at home for YEARS and totally "knows" what she's doing.
Her question: Why isn't the color taking on the ends? And why is it doing this at the top.
"Do you run the color through the ends of your hair?" (by the looks of things, the answer is yes) "Oh, no. The last two times, I didn't do that." "But, you've done it in the past?" "Not recently." "Okay. By my looking at your ends, you've applied the color to your entire head, a lot". "But not recently. You're not hearing me." SIGH.
So, I start my scientific speech about what hair color does to the hair. I get the "You're not listening to me" comment again. To which I politely reply "But, you're not letting me finish. I'm getting there". Then, she lets me finish. And what I'm saying somewhat makes sense. I never specifically use an accusatory tone when I'm talking about applying hair color, so I don't offend any one. And, I'm quick to point out it's never their fault, they're just following the directions on the box.
When she mentioned grey hair, I also told her that grey hair is different from pigmented hair, so it will take the color differently. And that as we age, our hair gets darker, so it doesn't cooperate like it used to. Which is why her regrowth area is gold and her ends are WHITE. If she wants her regrowth to match her ends, bleach needs to be involved.
"Oh, I can't use bleach. I'm allergic" (You can't be allergic to bleach if you're using strong hair color...it's not much different, and ammonia is involved. I don't say this) "Have you ever used bleach before?" "Oh, no." "Then, how do you know you're allergic to bleach?" "My mother told me I was allergic and to never use it, even in the laundry." (GA-DOINK) "Okay. While, in theory, hair bleach (or lightener) and fabric bleach work in much the same way: removing all pigment until it's gone, you cannot use fabric bleach on your hair. You need to come in sometime for a patch test, which is done either behind the ear or in the crook of your elbow, to see if you have an allergic reaction. If you don't, we can proceed from there."
Unfortunately, this is NOT the first time I've heard comments like this, thinking you can use household products to do what hair color or hair care products do. My own grandmother couldn't understand why you just couldn't use fabric softener on your hair. It does the same thing.
Absolutely. In THEORY, it does, in fact, do the same thing. And household chemicals have similar side effects when not used properly. However, putting fabric softener on your hair will not do what you want it to, and neither will putting household bleach on your hair give you highlights. And, while hair lightener, when splashed on your clothes, will lighten your clothing, conditioner in your laundry will NOT make your clothes softer.
ALSO: After you've trashed the living hell out of your hair, putting a box of your "natural" color over the top of the whole mess does NOT instantly cure your hair and bring it back to what it was before you started messing with it (even if I do it instead of you). I have explained this, numerous times, to a client of mine. I think she keeps hoping that I'm going to finally praise her for a job well done on her hair color. I would like to, really. However, she wants long hair. Her hair is fine. She continually applies permanent color to her hair, regrowth to ends, EVERY TIME. She doesn't like her natural dark color, and she freaks out about the random grey hairs she has, so she MUST color it. She will go out of her way to purchase "organic" products to care for her hair, thinking that will cure her ailment, yet not come in to receive a professional color service. because it's "too expensive". Lady, you just spent $45 on shampoo and conditioner, but you won't spend $45 on color??? How does this make sense?? I've explained hair color to her, hundreds of times. Falls on deaf ears.
I'm not going to lie. I got so frustrated with her that I told her I was buzzing her hair off next time so she has no choice but to start fresh and leave her hair alone. I did apologize for my frankness (some just cannot handle it), but also explained, yet again, that you can't keep doing this to your hair, on your own, and expect the results you're looking for. This is also the same woman who freaks out every time I cut her bangs, even though she asks me to do it, and I cut it exactly how she wants it done. The fun part?? When it comes to cutting her hair, she has difficulty making a decision and will even leave it to her 9 year old to decide...who, by the way, is very decisive. Thank god, because her mother sure isn't!
The scenario: She's older (maybe late 40's-early 50"s), long hair, gold at the top, white blonde from about the ears down to the middle of her back. She's been coloring her hair at home for YEARS and totally "knows" what she's doing.
Her question: Why isn't the color taking on the ends? And why is it doing this at the top.
"Do you run the color through the ends of your hair?" (by the looks of things, the answer is yes) "Oh, no. The last two times, I didn't do that." "But, you've done it in the past?" "Not recently." "Okay. By my looking at your ends, you've applied the color to your entire head, a lot". "But not recently. You're not hearing me." SIGH.
So, I start my scientific speech about what hair color does to the hair. I get the "You're not listening to me" comment again. To which I politely reply "But, you're not letting me finish. I'm getting there". Then, she lets me finish. And what I'm saying somewhat makes sense. I never specifically use an accusatory tone when I'm talking about applying hair color, so I don't offend any one. And, I'm quick to point out it's never their fault, they're just following the directions on the box.
When she mentioned grey hair, I also told her that grey hair is different from pigmented hair, so it will take the color differently. And that as we age, our hair gets darker, so it doesn't cooperate like it used to. Which is why her regrowth area is gold and her ends are WHITE. If she wants her regrowth to match her ends, bleach needs to be involved.
"Oh, I can't use bleach. I'm allergic" (You can't be allergic to bleach if you're using strong hair color...it's not much different, and ammonia is involved. I don't say this) "Have you ever used bleach before?" "Oh, no." "Then, how do you know you're allergic to bleach?" "My mother told me I was allergic and to never use it, even in the laundry." (GA-DOINK) "Okay. While, in theory, hair bleach (or lightener) and fabric bleach work in much the same way: removing all pigment until it's gone, you cannot use fabric bleach on your hair. You need to come in sometime for a patch test, which is done either behind the ear or in the crook of your elbow, to see if you have an allergic reaction. If you don't, we can proceed from there."
Unfortunately, this is NOT the first time I've heard comments like this, thinking you can use household products to do what hair color or hair care products do. My own grandmother couldn't understand why you just couldn't use fabric softener on your hair. It does the same thing.
Absolutely. In THEORY, it does, in fact, do the same thing. And household chemicals have similar side effects when not used properly. However, putting fabric softener on your hair will not do what you want it to, and neither will putting household bleach on your hair give you highlights. And, while hair lightener, when splashed on your clothes, will lighten your clothing, conditioner in your laundry will NOT make your clothes softer.
ALSO: After you've trashed the living hell out of your hair, putting a box of your "natural" color over the top of the whole mess does NOT instantly cure your hair and bring it back to what it was before you started messing with it (even if I do it instead of you). I have explained this, numerous times, to a client of mine. I think she keeps hoping that I'm going to finally praise her for a job well done on her hair color. I would like to, really. However, she wants long hair. Her hair is fine. She continually applies permanent color to her hair, regrowth to ends, EVERY TIME. She doesn't like her natural dark color, and she freaks out about the random grey hairs she has, so she MUST color it. She will go out of her way to purchase "organic" products to care for her hair, thinking that will cure her ailment, yet not come in to receive a professional color service. because it's "too expensive". Lady, you just spent $45 on shampoo and conditioner, but you won't spend $45 on color??? How does this make sense?? I've explained hair color to her, hundreds of times. Falls on deaf ears.
I'm not going to lie. I got so frustrated with her that I told her I was buzzing her hair off next time so she has no choice but to start fresh and leave her hair alone. I did apologize for my frankness (some just cannot handle it), but also explained, yet again, that you can't keep doing this to your hair, on your own, and expect the results you're looking for. This is also the same woman who freaks out every time I cut her bangs, even though she asks me to do it, and I cut it exactly how she wants it done. The fun part?? When it comes to cutting her hair, she has difficulty making a decision and will even leave it to her 9 year old to decide...who, by the way, is very decisive. Thank god, because her mother sure isn't!
Friday, November 16, 2012
when you're a newbie...
It's exciting when you're a new hairdresser. You finally get to practice your craft that your worked hard at when you were in school. And you want desperately to prove to your client that you know what the heck you're doing. HOWEVER. Take a deep breath. While you have to impress the heck out of them so they'll come back, don't go into over drive. Keep it simple, and remember to listen. Please.
Case in point: Tiffany had a Walmartian yesterday. The plan: Color, full foil, and haircut. They worked hard at getting the color down (which is fine), and Tiff's brain started formulating (get to that in a minute). However, she turned her hearing off at a crucial part : "I want quite a bit cut off." Had she cut the hair first, instead of last, she would have reduced the client in the chair time by a good hour and 10 minutes, by not fighting through all that hair.
The next panic: Client has level 4/5 hair, 1/2 color, 1/2 virgin. So, regrowth area was level 4-ish, ends were 6WG. Medium texture, fairly thick in density. And this is where Tiffany panicked and wanted to get very aggressive with her hair by using 40 volume on the client's scalp. (which, by the way, is a fairly big no no as it can cause serious chemical burns). She was just convinced that 40 volume was the way to go. She couldn't give me a good reason beyond "her hair is so dark. I'm afraid it won't lift." I finally convinced her to just use 20 volume with "You're going to burn her head if you use 40 volume. It's not meant for on the scalp processes. Just use the 20 volume" And thank GOD she did!
The last question: "Should I just pull the color through all her hair??" This is instead of formulating demi color for her ends (which, ultimately, didn't need to be done for the entire head). My response "You can, but the color will wash away on those ends because there's nothing for the color to grab onto and she'll have two tone hair again". Had she paid attention to cutting the hair first, she would have only needed to color the ends on the front part of her hair (she did a diagonal forward hair cut).
End results: Color came out almost what she was looking for (color is always a crap shoot. It doesn't always do what you want, no matter how hard you try.). What we discovered is that "dialing back" the volume to 15 instead of 20 would have prevented the "hot roots" she wound up with. Highlights were beautiful, hair cut was beautiful, client was very happy.
The downside to this appointment for the client?? It took 5 HOURS to accomplish this. (I did a similar process on another client, same length hair, just different texture, and slightly less foils, got it done in 3, and I'm a bit pokey on my application)
Other things I've noticed about Tiffany: She's picked up some bad habits from Rita: SITTING instead of getting other stuff done. She had a PILE of 6 dirty color bowls in the sink, waiting patiently (because that's what dirty dishes do) to be washed, there was still laundry to be finished, etc. We've got days now where there are only two of us on. That will only increase when Lynn goes out on maternity leave. There's no room for leaving messes for other people. Totally not fair to the other person.
Case in point: Tiffany had a Walmartian yesterday. The plan: Color, full foil, and haircut. They worked hard at getting the color down (which is fine), and Tiff's brain started formulating (get to that in a minute). However, she turned her hearing off at a crucial part : "I want quite a bit cut off." Had she cut the hair first, instead of last, she would have reduced the client in the chair time by a good hour and 10 minutes, by not fighting through all that hair.
The next panic: Client has level 4/5 hair, 1/2 color, 1/2 virgin. So, regrowth area was level 4-ish, ends were 6WG. Medium texture, fairly thick in density. And this is where Tiffany panicked and wanted to get very aggressive with her hair by using 40 volume on the client's scalp. (which, by the way, is a fairly big no no as it can cause serious chemical burns). She was just convinced that 40 volume was the way to go. She couldn't give me a good reason beyond "her hair is so dark. I'm afraid it won't lift." I finally convinced her to just use 20 volume with "You're going to burn her head if you use 40 volume. It's not meant for on the scalp processes. Just use the 20 volume" And thank GOD she did!
The last question: "Should I just pull the color through all her hair??" This is instead of formulating demi color for her ends (which, ultimately, didn't need to be done for the entire head). My response "You can, but the color will wash away on those ends because there's nothing for the color to grab onto and she'll have two tone hair again". Had she paid attention to cutting the hair first, she would have only needed to color the ends on the front part of her hair (she did a diagonal forward hair cut).
End results: Color came out almost what she was looking for (color is always a crap shoot. It doesn't always do what you want, no matter how hard you try.). What we discovered is that "dialing back" the volume to 15 instead of 20 would have prevented the "hot roots" she wound up with. Highlights were beautiful, hair cut was beautiful, client was very happy.
The downside to this appointment for the client?? It took 5 HOURS to accomplish this. (I did a similar process on another client, same length hair, just different texture, and slightly less foils, got it done in 3, and I'm a bit pokey on my application)
Other things I've noticed about Tiffany: She's picked up some bad habits from Rita: SITTING instead of getting other stuff done. She had a PILE of 6 dirty color bowls in the sink, waiting patiently (because that's what dirty dishes do) to be washed, there was still laundry to be finished, etc. We've got days now where there are only two of us on. That will only increase when Lynn goes out on maternity leave. There's no room for leaving messes for other people. Totally not fair to the other person.
Monday, November 12, 2012
Celebrity Hair
A lot of my job, some days, is explaining to people that whatever celebrity photo they're showing me for how they want their hair done isn't even the celebrity's hair!! They have extensions, full wigs, extra pieces added on for fullness when their hair is up, you name it...they've got it. I hate bursting people's bubbles, but, COME ON, PEOPLE!!
The other thing I see, because I troll the gossip sites, is the god-awful color these people sometimes have. I get why they want their hair to have "hot" roots and cool ends...totally get it. Brittney Spears is a prime example of all of this. Not only does she have orange roots & white ends while trying to be platinum blonde, she's also got extensions because her hair is baby fine and on the thin side. (if you pull up her "Baby one more time" album cover, you'll see her real hair).
Why they want the hot roots: Brittney, currently, is on television. The stage lights that shine on her while she's sitting at the judges podium for X-Factor cast a "cool" shadow, therefore, when you see her hair, it looks reasonably even in color. When you get the random photo in the gossip rags of her in natural light, her regrowth is down right orange. I suppose her stylist/colorist is probably thinking it'll cause less damage to her hair by not taking the entire head of hair all the way to pale blonde.
Here's the thing. Using a lightener and 20 volume isn't any more damaging to your hair than using high lift color and double 40 volume. In fact, it's less damaging, because you're using a developer that's meant for your scalp, and a lower volume developer in the first place. Quite frankly, double 40 volume BURNS on your scalp. And, I don't know about you, but I'm not okay with my scalp getting chemical burns! While 40 volume lifts higher, it also sits longer on the hair to start with, opening the door for more damage, particularly in hands that have less experience that others.
The other thing about lightener & 20 volume VS high lift color & double 40....Both can expose that wonderful orange color. However, you stand a better chance of eliminating it with proper timing with the lightener. You can leave high lift color on FOREVER and it will still only expose the "warmth" in the hair, not eliminate it. Why?? Because, you have to have the "perfect" conditions for high lift color to work: nothing thicker than medium texture hair and nothing more than medium density hair. Anything beyond that, and it won't work...hence the orange. All hair color (as opposed to lighteners) are made to work with medium texture & medium density hair. Which, I'm here to tell you, you don't run into terribly often.
The other thing I see, because I troll the gossip sites, is the god-awful color these people sometimes have. I get why they want their hair to have "hot" roots and cool ends...totally get it. Brittney Spears is a prime example of all of this. Not only does she have orange roots & white ends while trying to be platinum blonde, she's also got extensions because her hair is baby fine and on the thin side. (if you pull up her "Baby one more time" album cover, you'll see her real hair).
Why they want the hot roots: Brittney, currently, is on television. The stage lights that shine on her while she's sitting at the judges podium for X-Factor cast a "cool" shadow, therefore, when you see her hair, it looks reasonably even in color. When you get the random photo in the gossip rags of her in natural light, her regrowth is down right orange. I suppose her stylist/colorist is probably thinking it'll cause less damage to her hair by not taking the entire head of hair all the way to pale blonde.
Here's the thing. Using a lightener and 20 volume isn't any more damaging to your hair than using high lift color and double 40 volume. In fact, it's less damaging, because you're using a developer that's meant for your scalp, and a lower volume developer in the first place. Quite frankly, double 40 volume BURNS on your scalp. And, I don't know about you, but I'm not okay with my scalp getting chemical burns! While 40 volume lifts higher, it also sits longer on the hair to start with, opening the door for more damage, particularly in hands that have less experience that others.
The other thing about lightener & 20 volume VS high lift color & double 40....Both can expose that wonderful orange color. However, you stand a better chance of eliminating it with proper timing with the lightener. You can leave high lift color on FOREVER and it will still only expose the "warmth" in the hair, not eliminate it. Why?? Because, you have to have the "perfect" conditions for high lift color to work: nothing thicker than medium texture hair and nothing more than medium density hair. Anything beyond that, and it won't work...hence the orange. All hair color (as opposed to lighteners) are made to work with medium texture & medium density hair. Which, I'm here to tell you, you don't run into terribly often.
Friday, November 9, 2012
Learning
Tiffany expects a lot from herself. Unfortunately, she's got that "thing" that all new hairdressers have: I just graduated from school, I know everything!! And, consequently, she's made a couple of colossal mistakes because of it.
When you're in beauty school, particularly the school we all went to, you're taught "to the test" so you can pass your state boards. Consequently, some of the education they receive is a bit outdated.
The other thing that tends to happen is that while we're taught to check the texture of a client's hair (fine, medium, coarse), we're not necessarily taught how to take that into consideration when formulating for someone.
Case in point: Tiff had a client yesterday with thick, LONG curly, medium to coarse VIRGIN red hair, level 7. She wanted the underneath part of her hair (from occipital down) to be a bright gold color. So, Tiffany decided that 9G + gold booster + blonding creme + 30 volume would do the job. Didn't do a bloody thing. Here's why:
The higher the level of hair color, the less pigment the color actually has. Therefore, the deposit of color won't be there. Which is why she put the gold booster in, to try to give the color some depth. The blonding creme was to give it additional boost to make her hair lift.
When she called me to ask for help, she was quite irritated with the whole process. She did the first formula, nothing. Then, she did 9A (have no idea why she chose ash) and 40 volume, still nothing. And she couldn't understand why. So, I asked her, again, for the level, texture, condition of her hair. What happened is that she expected hair color to do the job of bleach, which it's NOT designed to do. Then, adding the second hair color formula did lift it a bit more, but still not enough. Again, she couldn't figure out why. "Tiff---you're asking hair color to do the job of bleach. Not only that, but color doesn't lift color predictably". You could almost hear her smack her forehead.
Here's the formula that actually worked: Lightener + 40 volume, 1:2 ratio. (which the manufacturer will tell you is a big no no...the only way I know of to keep the product pliable) Separate the entire section into two parts, mix one batch for the first section, then mix a second batch for the second section, same formula (to keep the product fresh and effective). Cap it to keep it from drying out, and put her under the dryer (which, normally, I don't encourage) for 30 minutes (warming up the dryer before hand), checking it every 5 to 10 minutes, wiping away a small bit in a different place each time to check the lift. Make sure to note on her card exactly how long it took to lift, so we'll know for next time. Worked like a charm!
What I also explained to Tiffany: When the hair is not fine or baby fine (her hair & my hair), the cuticle is thicker, therefore harder to break through. You've also got virgin hair, which has an even tighter cuticle to try & break through. Therefore, you need to use a stronger product to get the job done. Using a product meant to lift 1 or 2 levels (which would have been fine, under optimal conditions) on hair that isn't medium to fine in texture just will not work. Period.
I've started sharing some of my education (the books) with the girls, to help them along. Unfortunately, neither Tiffany nor Lynn are big on reading. I asked Tiffany last night if she'd read any of the last bunch of stuff I gave her. It took her a minute to say "I've read little bits". Darling, you need to read the whole thing. Break it up and read it in bits, but READ IT. I'm also going to make copies of the exposed pigment chart that I have and post it in the dispensary so these issues (hopefully) quit happening.
While you need to learn to walk before you can run, jumping in over your head is NEVER a good idea. Tiffany found this out, the hard way.
When you're in beauty school, particularly the school we all went to, you're taught "to the test" so you can pass your state boards. Consequently, some of the education they receive is a bit outdated.
The other thing that tends to happen is that while we're taught to check the texture of a client's hair (fine, medium, coarse), we're not necessarily taught how to take that into consideration when formulating for someone.
Case in point: Tiff had a client yesterday with thick, LONG curly, medium to coarse VIRGIN red hair, level 7. She wanted the underneath part of her hair (from occipital down) to be a bright gold color. So, Tiffany decided that 9G + gold booster + blonding creme + 30 volume would do the job. Didn't do a bloody thing. Here's why:
The higher the level of hair color, the less pigment the color actually has. Therefore, the deposit of color won't be there. Which is why she put the gold booster in, to try to give the color some depth. The blonding creme was to give it additional boost to make her hair lift.
When she called me to ask for help, she was quite irritated with the whole process. She did the first formula, nothing. Then, she did 9A (have no idea why she chose ash) and 40 volume, still nothing. And she couldn't understand why. So, I asked her, again, for the level, texture, condition of her hair. What happened is that she expected hair color to do the job of bleach, which it's NOT designed to do. Then, adding the second hair color formula did lift it a bit more, but still not enough. Again, she couldn't figure out why. "Tiff---you're asking hair color to do the job of bleach. Not only that, but color doesn't lift color predictably". You could almost hear her smack her forehead.
Here's the formula that actually worked: Lightener + 40 volume, 1:2 ratio. (which the manufacturer will tell you is a big no no...the only way I know of to keep the product pliable) Separate the entire section into two parts, mix one batch for the first section, then mix a second batch for the second section, same formula (to keep the product fresh and effective). Cap it to keep it from drying out, and put her under the dryer (which, normally, I don't encourage) for 30 minutes (warming up the dryer before hand), checking it every 5 to 10 minutes, wiping away a small bit in a different place each time to check the lift. Make sure to note on her card exactly how long it took to lift, so we'll know for next time. Worked like a charm!
What I also explained to Tiffany: When the hair is not fine or baby fine (her hair & my hair), the cuticle is thicker, therefore harder to break through. You've also got virgin hair, which has an even tighter cuticle to try & break through. Therefore, you need to use a stronger product to get the job done. Using a product meant to lift 1 or 2 levels (which would have been fine, under optimal conditions) on hair that isn't medium to fine in texture just will not work. Period.
I've started sharing some of my education (the books) with the girls, to help them along. Unfortunately, neither Tiffany nor Lynn are big on reading. I asked Tiffany last night if she'd read any of the last bunch of stuff I gave her. It took her a minute to say "I've read little bits". Darling, you need to read the whole thing. Break it up and read it in bits, but READ IT. I'm also going to make copies of the exposed pigment chart that I have and post it in the dispensary so these issues (hopefully) quit happening.
While you need to learn to walk before you can run, jumping in over your head is NEVER a good idea. Tiffany found this out, the hard way.
The beginning of a new era??
At the end of September, unbeknownst to me, Rita called Coral to give her notice. This is the second time she's given her notice and the second time she's been talked out of it (more than likely has to do with turn over numbers--certainly not her stellar job performance). The solution?? To transfer her to another store an hour away (side note: Rita had difficulty getting to our store on time, a mere 15 minutes away from her home). I do not believe that she was aware all of her disciplinary actions would be following her...but I digress.
I found out this information during a weekly conference call-- "Oh, by the way..." and asked Coral to call me directly after the meeting to give me the details, which weren't much. Just that Rita wanted to quit and chose to transfer to the other store instead. I was led to believe she was going willingly. However, Rita told everyone she had no choice in the matter. Well, sunshine, you DID have a choice--you could have insisted on quitting---cut your losses and GO.
Me, being the sneaky jerk that I am, I made sure we had a little good-bye celebration for her---cake, flowers, card. However, me also being me, I couldn't totally be fake with her--"Bye, Rita. Good luck!" no long, drawn out speech, no phoniness. The other girls each wrote a paragraph in her card about "come back & see us--we'll miss you!" blah blah blah. I wrote "Good luck--Change is good! Embrace the change!" Cold?? Sure. But HONEST.
Since she's been gone, it's been fairly calm. Tina has been up to some shenanigans (ultimately stemming from her break up with her boyfriend and not wanting to be "ousted" by the two new girls), but, over all, CALM. We're starting to gel as a team--which is nice.
My primary focus is on making sure the two new girls make commission. Tina can handle herself--she's got a client base (albeit a small one)
I found out this information during a weekly conference call-- "Oh, by the way..." and asked Coral to call me directly after the meeting to give me the details, which weren't much. Just that Rita wanted to quit and chose to transfer to the other store instead. I was led to believe she was going willingly. However, Rita told everyone she had no choice in the matter. Well, sunshine, you DID have a choice--you could have insisted on quitting---cut your losses and GO.
Me, being the sneaky jerk that I am, I made sure we had a little good-bye celebration for her---cake, flowers, card. However, me also being me, I couldn't totally be fake with her--"Bye, Rita. Good luck!" no long, drawn out speech, no phoniness. The other girls each wrote a paragraph in her card about "come back & see us--we'll miss you!" blah blah blah. I wrote "Good luck--Change is good! Embrace the change!" Cold?? Sure. But HONEST.
Since she's been gone, it's been fairly calm. Tina has been up to some shenanigans (ultimately stemming from her break up with her boyfriend and not wanting to be "ousted" by the two new girls), but, over all, CALM. We're starting to gel as a team--which is nice.
My primary focus is on making sure the two new girls make commission. Tina can handle herself--she's got a client base (albeit a small one)
Friday, October 5, 2012
Updates
Tiffany and Lynn are doing fine. I did have a client come back yesterday because Lynn cut her hair and seemed to have forgotten to take care of the top of her hair. The client let me know, in Lynn's defense, that Lynn had another potential customer pestering the living day lights out of her to tell her what time she could get in to receive a hair cut. And this is where Lynn probably got distracted and lost her place. No biggie, just went in and completed the hair cut. I will be talking to Lynn later today regarding this issue. Poor girl is having issues with her pregnancy, too (dehydration issues), which is distracting. Hopefully, we can solve this issue.
Tiffany seems to be picking up some bad habits. Her work ethic with her clients is just fine. She's always willing to stay and take another client to help clear the books, which is nice. However, she's becoming notorious for not finishing things, like filling out the deposit slip completely, or collecting the trash before she goes, or just cleaning up the mess in general before she closes at night. So, I'll need to chat with her about that, just to make sure she understands you can't leave a mess for someone else to clean up in the morning. It's not fair. Again, simple stuff, and a chat should solve this issue.
Tina: Since I wrote her up, she's been behaving herself. I even had her take over for me while I was on vacation (the actual manager stuff...conference call, calling in sales numbers, schedules, ordering). She found out exactly what dealing with my co-workers is like. No one would listen to her when she tried to guide them, Rita, in particular, gave her a hard time while I was gone. So, currently, Tina has a bit of respect for me and what I put up with on a daily basis. So, she's been on her best behaviour and is making sure she doesn't pull her old shenanigans again.
Rita. Rita. Rita. I pulled her in two weeks ago, to address a whole bunch of issues. From her complaining about me to the girls (who, in turn, complained to me about her complaining) to her dress code, to her attendance, to her second technical (which happened right before I left for vacation), to her first write up for attendance (for blatantly not attending a mandatory salon meeting). The conversation I had with her was relatively simple. She was telling everyone that I was out to get her. Not true. Even told her about how If I'd been "out to get her", she would have lost her job LAST DECEMBER when she was up to her 4th "re-do" on haircuts. So, since I've been covering for her, how is that me "out to get her"?? She had no answer for that. I also mentioned that perhaps Smartstyles wasn't a good fit for her. She has issues with giving her client her full attention (thinks nothing of walking away from the paying client to talk to a "friend" who walks by the salon), has issues with completing the service competently as well as confidently, her dress code needs major improvement, and so does her general attendance. I finally ended it with "You need to figure out what you want to do. If your plan is to stay here, you need to do drastic, dramatic improvement and maintain that improvement."
Her solution to the issue?? To call Coral on my day off, and talk to her about leaving all together. Coral's solution was to transfer her to another salon, (so she can see that it's not ME "out to get her") which is an hour away from here. I feel bad for the salon manager that gets to deal with her next. The poor woman (who I only know by voice as of right now) has enough drama in her salon that she doesn't want to deal with. And she's inheriting Rita.
Rita's work has slid so far back, I'm not sure if she's got it in her to save it. And, luckily, she won't be my worry after October 20th. (she's on vacation the 21st - the 27th, then on the other salon's schedule after that). I also think that once she's gone, we'll have a strong team.
Tiffany seems to be picking up some bad habits. Her work ethic with her clients is just fine. She's always willing to stay and take another client to help clear the books, which is nice. However, she's becoming notorious for not finishing things, like filling out the deposit slip completely, or collecting the trash before she goes, or just cleaning up the mess in general before she closes at night. So, I'll need to chat with her about that, just to make sure she understands you can't leave a mess for someone else to clean up in the morning. It's not fair. Again, simple stuff, and a chat should solve this issue.
Tina: Since I wrote her up, she's been behaving herself. I even had her take over for me while I was on vacation (the actual manager stuff...conference call, calling in sales numbers, schedules, ordering). She found out exactly what dealing with my co-workers is like. No one would listen to her when she tried to guide them, Rita, in particular, gave her a hard time while I was gone. So, currently, Tina has a bit of respect for me and what I put up with on a daily basis. So, she's been on her best behaviour and is making sure she doesn't pull her old shenanigans again.
Rita. Rita. Rita. I pulled her in two weeks ago, to address a whole bunch of issues. From her complaining about me to the girls (who, in turn, complained to me about her complaining) to her dress code, to her attendance, to her second technical (which happened right before I left for vacation), to her first write up for attendance (for blatantly not attending a mandatory salon meeting). The conversation I had with her was relatively simple. She was telling everyone that I was out to get her. Not true. Even told her about how If I'd been "out to get her", she would have lost her job LAST DECEMBER when she was up to her 4th "re-do" on haircuts. So, since I've been covering for her, how is that me "out to get her"?? She had no answer for that. I also mentioned that perhaps Smartstyles wasn't a good fit for her. She has issues with giving her client her full attention (thinks nothing of walking away from the paying client to talk to a "friend" who walks by the salon), has issues with completing the service competently as well as confidently, her dress code needs major improvement, and so does her general attendance. I finally ended it with "You need to figure out what you want to do. If your plan is to stay here, you need to do drastic, dramatic improvement and maintain that improvement."
Her solution to the issue?? To call Coral on my day off, and talk to her about leaving all together. Coral's solution was to transfer her to another salon, (so she can see that it's not ME "out to get her") which is an hour away from here. I feel bad for the salon manager that gets to deal with her next. The poor woman (who I only know by voice as of right now) has enough drama in her salon that she doesn't want to deal with. And she's inheriting Rita.
Rita's work has slid so far back, I'm not sure if she's got it in her to save it. And, luckily, she won't be my worry after October 20th. (she's on vacation the 21st - the 27th, then on the other salon's schedule after that). I also think that once she's gone, we'll have a strong team.
Sunday, August 26, 2012
The hammer is coming down!
So, since my last post (of a month ago..sorry about that) I've hired two new hairdressers, Tiffany and Lynn. For recent graduates of the local cosmetology school, they're working out quite fine! I'm so glad I hired them! They're reasonably drama-free, and eager to learn!
Now, for the shenanigans: Tina went on vacation for two weeks, starting the beginning of August. She just came back this week. Now, Tina has a nasty habit of calling out either before she goes on vacation (or a long weekend), when she's supposed to be coming back, or both. So, it was (partially) no surprise that she called out the day she was scheduled to be back to work, due to her flight being delayed. When I spoke to Coral about this, we came to the decision that Tina needed to be written up. Granted, the delay was beyond her control, but this isn't the first time she's called out when she's supposed to be back to work.
When I sat down with her yesterday to talk about this, naturally, her defenses were up, quite a bit. I had cold, hard facts to present to her, and, to her credit, she didn't try to dispute them. And, this is not the first time we've talked about this stuff. It is, however, the first time she's been written up about it. I told her, flat out, this activity must stop. Me writing her up isn't PERSONAL, it's PROFESSIONAL. And, as professionals, we don't need to take this out to the salon floor. It doesn't need to be discussed with co-workers. It just needs to be solved. We'll see how this goes.
Rita, Rita, Rita. Nothing ever changes with her. I wrote her up about two weeks ago, on a technical issue. She's a lousy hair cutter, period. Inconsistent, unsure of herself, and it shows in everything she does. She really messed up a haircut...to the point that the client went elsewhere to get it fixed. Now, the client is a bit of a drama queen, she's a bargain shopper, always looking for the "deal". And, she didn't feel comfortable sitting in Rita's chair. Didn't stop her, though...her mistake, really. HOWEVER, as I said to Rita : Even when you feel the customer is wrong, the customer is ALWAYS right. So, Rita got written up. She's to cross check her haircuts (which I really haven't seen her do), conduct a thorough consultation (not really), and repeat back to the client what was said, then discuss what she's going to do. Because Rita is a bit "limited", she lacks the vocabulary to effectively convey she knows what she's talking about. And she also tends to lack the skills or the attention span, sometimes, to follow through. Sigh.
On Tuesday, I posted a note stating salon meeting on Sunday (today), after work, wanting to make it easier for everyone to come. Of course, Rita has a game she must go watch, as her daughter is a cheerleader at this game. I get being a parent. I get wanting to be supportive of your kids. Salon meetings are MANDATORY. You get paid to attend them. And you don't get to get out of them. I got so irritated with her on Tuesday that I got all passive/aggressive on her and just said "Whatever, Rita" which she took as "I can go do what I want and not attend the meeting". So, last night, as I was leaving, I told the girls "See you tomorrow afternoon" to which Rita started to talk to me about it, trying to get out of going to the meeting. "But, but but". "Rita, I talked to Coral about this, and salon meetings are mandatory. If you don't show up, I have to write you up." We'll see what happens later today.
Is Rita my favorite?? No. Does she know that?? Unfortunately, yes. I'm friendly enough with her, but my distaste is a bit hard to cover, at this point. Professionally, I've covered for her and fixed her mistakes far too many times to continue to tolerate her behaviour. And, the chat I had with Coral the other day was quite revealing. We both came to the same conclusion: Rita won't be working for us a whole lot longer, one way or the other.
Now, for the shenanigans: Tina went on vacation for two weeks, starting the beginning of August. She just came back this week. Now, Tina has a nasty habit of calling out either before she goes on vacation (or a long weekend), when she's supposed to be coming back, or both. So, it was (partially) no surprise that she called out the day she was scheduled to be back to work, due to her flight being delayed. When I spoke to Coral about this, we came to the decision that Tina needed to be written up. Granted, the delay was beyond her control, but this isn't the first time she's called out when she's supposed to be back to work.
When I sat down with her yesterday to talk about this, naturally, her defenses were up, quite a bit. I had cold, hard facts to present to her, and, to her credit, she didn't try to dispute them. And, this is not the first time we've talked about this stuff. It is, however, the first time she's been written up about it. I told her, flat out, this activity must stop. Me writing her up isn't PERSONAL, it's PROFESSIONAL. And, as professionals, we don't need to take this out to the salon floor. It doesn't need to be discussed with co-workers. It just needs to be solved. We'll see how this goes.
Rita, Rita, Rita. Nothing ever changes with her. I wrote her up about two weeks ago, on a technical issue. She's a lousy hair cutter, period. Inconsistent, unsure of herself, and it shows in everything she does. She really messed up a haircut...to the point that the client went elsewhere to get it fixed. Now, the client is a bit of a drama queen, she's a bargain shopper, always looking for the "deal". And, she didn't feel comfortable sitting in Rita's chair. Didn't stop her, though...her mistake, really. HOWEVER, as I said to Rita : Even when you feel the customer is wrong, the customer is ALWAYS right. So, Rita got written up. She's to cross check her haircuts (which I really haven't seen her do), conduct a thorough consultation (not really), and repeat back to the client what was said, then discuss what she's going to do. Because Rita is a bit "limited", she lacks the vocabulary to effectively convey she knows what she's talking about. And she also tends to lack the skills or the attention span, sometimes, to follow through. Sigh.
On Tuesday, I posted a note stating salon meeting on Sunday (today), after work, wanting to make it easier for everyone to come. Of course, Rita has a game she must go watch, as her daughter is a cheerleader at this game. I get being a parent. I get wanting to be supportive of your kids. Salon meetings are MANDATORY. You get paid to attend them. And you don't get to get out of them. I got so irritated with her on Tuesday that I got all passive/aggressive on her and just said "Whatever, Rita" which she took as "I can go do what I want and not attend the meeting". So, last night, as I was leaving, I told the girls "See you tomorrow afternoon" to which Rita started to talk to me about it, trying to get out of going to the meeting. "But, but but". "Rita, I talked to Coral about this, and salon meetings are mandatory. If you don't show up, I have to write you up." We'll see what happens later today.
Is Rita my favorite?? No. Does she know that?? Unfortunately, yes. I'm friendly enough with her, but my distaste is a bit hard to cover, at this point. Professionally, I've covered for her and fixed her mistakes far too many times to continue to tolerate her behaviour. And, the chat I had with Coral the other day was quite revealing. We both came to the same conclusion: Rita won't be working for us a whole lot longer, one way or the other.
Saturday, July 28, 2012
It's about time!
We got visit yesterday from "The Big Wigs" (as Rita put it). It went well. I called and spoke to Coral (my newest district manager) and she told me I didn't have to come in early (I worked til 8pm last night, they were there at 9am). The only thing we truly got "busted" for was the back room door was left open and it's not supposed to be. BIG. WHOOPTIE. DOO.
Later that day, when I was in the middle of a hair cut, Coral called back, wanting to briefly talk to me. I'M NOW OFFICIALLY THE MANAGER!!! PAY RAISE, BONUSES COMING MY WAY, EVERYTHING!!!
It wasn't a case of what I was doing as opposed to what I SHOULD be doing. And I didn't suspect that at all. It was a case of having the "wrong" people above me that wouldn't advance me, for whatever reasons they could come up with. Every "hoop" they presented, I jumped through. Every challenge they passed my way, I grabbed and shook the hell out of it. And, I still, when I asked, got told there was "more" I needed to do to become the manager. So, I finally just gave up. I worked the minimum hours required (38-ish), submitted schedules on time, and did the supply ordering. THAT'S IT. I refused to call in my hours (which I was supposed to, so I could get the "acting manager" stipend, which, by the way, still didn't cover what I was supposed to be making).
My theory behind not calling in my hours is this: If you'd just make me salon manager, I wouldn't have to call in my hours, and still not get paid what I'm supposed to. Consequently, when I talked to Coral yesterday, I'm now getting a retroactive check to cover all the weeks I didn't call in my payroll, and as of August 1st, I will be on manager's pay (which is 50% commission instead of 40%, regardless of what I pull in for client services).
That all being said, stay tuned for another exciting installment of "All My Scissors" because I'm too sure the shenanigans will be starting up, AGAIN.
Later that day, when I was in the middle of a hair cut, Coral called back, wanting to briefly talk to me. I'M NOW OFFICIALLY THE MANAGER!!! PAY RAISE, BONUSES COMING MY WAY, EVERYTHING!!!
It wasn't a case of what I was doing as opposed to what I SHOULD be doing. And I didn't suspect that at all. It was a case of having the "wrong" people above me that wouldn't advance me, for whatever reasons they could come up with. Every "hoop" they presented, I jumped through. Every challenge they passed my way, I grabbed and shook the hell out of it. And, I still, when I asked, got told there was "more" I needed to do to become the manager. So, I finally just gave up. I worked the minimum hours required (38-ish), submitted schedules on time, and did the supply ordering. THAT'S IT. I refused to call in my hours (which I was supposed to, so I could get the "acting manager" stipend, which, by the way, still didn't cover what I was supposed to be making).
My theory behind not calling in my hours is this: If you'd just make me salon manager, I wouldn't have to call in my hours, and still not get paid what I'm supposed to. Consequently, when I talked to Coral yesterday, I'm now getting a retroactive check to cover all the weeks I didn't call in my payroll, and as of August 1st, I will be on manager's pay (which is 50% commission instead of 40%, regardless of what I pull in for client services).
That all being said, stay tuned for another exciting installment of "All My Scissors" because I'm too sure the shenanigans will be starting up, AGAIN.
Sunday, June 17, 2012
Over processed hair
WARNING: Do NOT come into a hair salon and think that you'll be able to pull the wool over a hair dresser's eyes.
Yesterday, Tina had a client come in, wanting a perm. Once the client took her hat off, and started apologizing for the condition of her hair ("Oh, I didn't brush my hair today"), I started paying a bit of attention. I had a former hair dresser in my chair who audibly gasped when that hat came off, so I turned around. Unbelievably over processed hair. Not just "not brushed". OVER PROCESSED.
I called Tina over to me, privately, and told her that a strand test is a MUST. There is no way that we're going to provide a perm to anyone whose hair will not take it. Nope. Nada. No freakin' way. So, Tina took a sample strand from the back of her head, set it to soak in developer, and then gave the client a clarifying treatment to get out all the product in her hair. (the client has baby fine hair to start with, old, bad perm on the ends, and some old hair color to boot)
Tina took the strand out of the solution after 10 minutes, rinsed it. We then separated the strand into two sections; One for me to pull on, one to pull on in front of the client. What a surprise! The hair shredded in my fingers. No perm for you, honey.
Tina took the other strand out to the client, to do the same thing. The client was PISSED we didn't provide the service. She got a great haircut, a conditioning treatment, everything. Her comment: "Well, I won't be coming here again." Her husband, who works for Walmart, came into the salon to see how things were progressing. The wife put forth a snotty attitude when telling the husband why we were refusing the service. His comment? "Well, just go back to the other place and get it done". I can't wait to hear him bad mouth us. It will be fun explaining to him that you can't fool a hairdresser.
We don't normally refuse services to clients. It takes extenuating circumstances to do so. Head lice is number one. Open wounds on their scalp is another. Over processed hair is the third. Don't lie to me about what you've done to your hair. I'll find out, and manage to prove you a liar. It's certainly not something I enjoy doing, but it's something that has to be done. My license, my professional integrity, and my professional reputation is on the line. Not to mention the salon's reputation, which is always on the line. If we had gone ahead and permed her hair, we ran the very serious risk of her hair coming off in some one's hands, if not a point of service, then later on, while combing, washing, or brushing the hair. And then, whose fault is it?? The client who insisted on the perm?? Nope. The hairdresser who should have known better.
She'll go to another salon, she'll get the perm. She'll find a hairdresser with limited integrity (because there are a lot of them out there, trust me) who will look at her as dollar signs and not as a real person, and perm her hair. And when it disintegrates (not IF, WHEN), she'll understand why we wouldn't do the perm. Or, she'll just keep thinking we're a bunch of idiots. Doesn't matter to me. We did the right thing.
Yesterday, Tina had a client come in, wanting a perm. Once the client took her hat off, and started apologizing for the condition of her hair ("Oh, I didn't brush my hair today"), I started paying a bit of attention. I had a former hair dresser in my chair who audibly gasped when that hat came off, so I turned around. Unbelievably over processed hair. Not just "not brushed". OVER PROCESSED.
I called Tina over to me, privately, and told her that a strand test is a MUST. There is no way that we're going to provide a perm to anyone whose hair will not take it. Nope. Nada. No freakin' way. So, Tina took a sample strand from the back of her head, set it to soak in developer, and then gave the client a clarifying treatment to get out all the product in her hair. (the client has baby fine hair to start with, old, bad perm on the ends, and some old hair color to boot)
Tina took the strand out of the solution after 10 minutes, rinsed it. We then separated the strand into two sections; One for me to pull on, one to pull on in front of the client. What a surprise! The hair shredded in my fingers. No perm for you, honey.
Tina took the other strand out to the client, to do the same thing. The client was PISSED we didn't provide the service. She got a great haircut, a conditioning treatment, everything. Her comment: "Well, I won't be coming here again." Her husband, who works for Walmart, came into the salon to see how things were progressing. The wife put forth a snotty attitude when telling the husband why we were refusing the service. His comment? "Well, just go back to the other place and get it done". I can't wait to hear him bad mouth us. It will be fun explaining to him that you can't fool a hairdresser.
We don't normally refuse services to clients. It takes extenuating circumstances to do so. Head lice is number one. Open wounds on their scalp is another. Over processed hair is the third. Don't lie to me about what you've done to your hair. I'll find out, and manage to prove you a liar. It's certainly not something I enjoy doing, but it's something that has to be done. My license, my professional integrity, and my professional reputation is on the line. Not to mention the salon's reputation, which is always on the line. If we had gone ahead and permed her hair, we ran the very serious risk of her hair coming off in some one's hands, if not a point of service, then later on, while combing, washing, or brushing the hair. And then, whose fault is it?? The client who insisted on the perm?? Nope. The hairdresser who should have known better.
She'll go to another salon, she'll get the perm. She'll find a hairdresser with limited integrity (because there are a lot of them out there, trust me) who will look at her as dollar signs and not as a real person, and perm her hair. And when it disintegrates (not IF, WHEN), she'll understand why we wouldn't do the perm. Or, she'll just keep thinking we're a bunch of idiots. Doesn't matter to me. We did the right thing.
Saturday, June 9, 2012
Other people's blogs
I read other blogs, particularly hairdressing ones. I don't claim to be the reigning authority on things, but, over the years, I've done my research so I can answer people's questions effectively and accurately.
Here are portions of the blog I read and just HAD to comment about.
"How to save on hair cuts, hair color and hair products"
1. "You only need to lather once" Really?? Here's how shampoo works: Shampoo has oil loving molecules and dirt loving molecules, meaning these molecules attract what is in your hair that needs to come out. The first soaping loosens up these items, the second soaping removes them completely from your hair, leaving your hair CLEAN. When you only soap it up once (particularly in the interest of "saving money"), you are not getting rid of what is making your hair "dirty". Consequently, your complaint is that such and such a shampoo is making my hair greasy.
2. "Skip the fancy schmancy shampoos & conditioners--you can get a good product at the grocery store" The cheaper the shampoo, the harsher it is on your hair. The cheaper the shampoo, the more you need to use to have "clean" hair. The cheaper the shampoo, the more often you find yourself purchasing MORE because you don't have enough to last you a while (even in the big bottles).
Professional product is more concentrated, so you use less. You almost NEVER need more than a quarter sized dollop of product, EVER, in your hair--the exception to the rule is usually a deep conditioning treatment. I DO agree with "buying the jumbo bottles"--you spend, in general, about 15-20 cents per ounce of product per bottle. A "serving" of product (to wash or condition your hair) is generally .02 ounces. Which means two shampooings plus a conditioning might cost you about 30 cents.
3. "Consider growing out your hair cut". Ummmmm.....you still need to get a hair cut, other wise it's a shaggy mess. All you're really doing is pushing out the cost of a hair cut a few more weeks. Really not a savings....
4. "If you get all over color, skip the salon and do it yourself". Do you know how to formulate for grey coverage?? How about for combating unwanted warmth in your hair?? Do you understand how permanent color actually works?? What's your formula for a gorgeous chocolate brown?? How about Cherry red?? Do you know why your hair feels "dry" after you color your hair??
I'm here to tell you most people don't even know what their natural color IS, let alone which box of color to choose, or that they need multiple boxes of color to correct/achieve what they're looking for.
5. "If you have oily hair, skip dry shampoo and apply baby powder to soak up excess oils". READ THE INGREDIENTS IN DRY SHAMPOOS. It's BAKING SODA!! Which, by the way, is cheaper than baby powder.
I think I'm done ranting for now....stay tuned!
Here are portions of the blog I read and just HAD to comment about.
"How to save on hair cuts, hair color and hair products"
1. "You only need to lather once" Really?? Here's how shampoo works: Shampoo has oil loving molecules and dirt loving molecules, meaning these molecules attract what is in your hair that needs to come out. The first soaping loosens up these items, the second soaping removes them completely from your hair, leaving your hair CLEAN. When you only soap it up once (particularly in the interest of "saving money"), you are not getting rid of what is making your hair "dirty". Consequently, your complaint is that such and such a shampoo is making my hair greasy.
2. "Skip the fancy schmancy shampoos & conditioners--you can get a good product at the grocery store" The cheaper the shampoo, the harsher it is on your hair. The cheaper the shampoo, the more you need to use to have "clean" hair. The cheaper the shampoo, the more often you find yourself purchasing MORE because you don't have enough to last you a while (even in the big bottles).
Professional product is more concentrated, so you use less. You almost NEVER need more than a quarter sized dollop of product, EVER, in your hair--the exception to the rule is usually a deep conditioning treatment. I DO agree with "buying the jumbo bottles"--you spend, in general, about 15-20 cents per ounce of product per bottle. A "serving" of product (to wash or condition your hair) is generally .02 ounces. Which means two shampooings plus a conditioning might cost you about 30 cents.
3. "Consider growing out your hair cut". Ummmmm.....you still need to get a hair cut, other wise it's a shaggy mess. All you're really doing is pushing out the cost of a hair cut a few more weeks. Really not a savings....
4. "If you get all over color, skip the salon and do it yourself". Do you know how to formulate for grey coverage?? How about for combating unwanted warmth in your hair?? Do you understand how permanent color actually works?? What's your formula for a gorgeous chocolate brown?? How about Cherry red?? Do you know why your hair feels "dry" after you color your hair??
I'm here to tell you most people don't even know what their natural color IS, let alone which box of color to choose, or that they need multiple boxes of color to correct/achieve what they're looking for.
5. "If you have oily hair, skip dry shampoo and apply baby powder to soak up excess oils". READ THE INGREDIENTS IN DRY SHAMPOOS. It's BAKING SODA!! Which, by the way, is cheaper than baby powder.
I think I'm done ranting for now....stay tuned!
Sunday, April 29, 2012
"All My Scissors"
Work has very much become a soap opera lately. We now have a new stylist, which is very exciting. Her name is Erica. She graduated last fall, so she's FRESH, which is nice. Complete breath of fresh air, really. And, she's doing well, considering she's fresh out of school. I see her building a client base rather quickly.
The shenanigans going on: Rita, lovely, Rita....sigh....always an angle with her. She asked for April 28th off, as she had "tickets" in NYC. She went of one of those bus trips to see Morgan Freeman...when I asked her if it was a play, a presentation, whatever, she had absolutely no idea what she was going to, just that she had tickets and was going. So, we (meaning myself, Shezoa & Tammy) let her go. Luckily, Erica was hired in the meantime, so the schedule was somewhat covered. (Erica is slow, she's new....if all of us were on yesterday, it wouldn't have been a huge issue)
THEN, Rita also wanted Saturday, May 12 off. To her credit, she asked for it WAY in advance, thinking I'd just give it to her. When I looked at the schedule rotation, it would actually give her an entire weekend (Fri, Sat, Sun) off, which is a big no no. When Erica came on board (mind you, Erica is on a training schedule, so she's not able to do things like open & close just yet. I want her getting used to the "system", the pace, etc.), she immediately presumed she would be able to cover the schedule and Rita would get what she wanted off. Uh, NO. Nice try, though.
This past Monday, Rita tried, yet again, to pester me about May 12. (which is in the middle of prom season...we don't get much in the way of updo's due to the fact that we don't book appointments, but it's also a Saturday, which means all hands on deck). I told her I would have to look at the schedules and see if I could switch anything around (which, really, I didn't want to, but I looked at it anyway). Well, lo and behold, she's scheduled 10-4. Not a big deal. I also asked her WHY she wanted that day off. "I'm doing my niece's hair for prom". DA DUH DUM DUM DUM....
A side note: Doing hair at home, no matter whose it is, according to Regis, is considered a "conflict of interest" and can get you written up and/or terminated.
I went on my two days off, which were Tues & Wed. When I came back, there were notes galore in my station. Rita and Tina put their heads together and plotted around what Rita wanted and presented me with their "solution". Which got instantaneously shot down when Rita asked me about it. "No. You can't have that day off, nor can you switch with anyone. You are scheduled 10-4. I'm not changing the schedule." Mad doesn't even begin to cover Rita's feelings about that one. She stomped around, slamming things. When the phone rang and it was for me, she barked at me about it. (I was on my lunch at the time) When I took my cellphone with me to go out onto the sales floor in Walmart to call my boss, she was standing just outside the salon, away from the door way, griping to a friend of hers about what a witch I am. (didn't hear the words...didn't have to) I placed my call (left a message) and went back to work. It took Rita a good two hours to calm down.
Tina's shenanigans: I had called her Tuesday morning to tell her about an issue with the ladies at the bank when she told me that the closeout book wasn't right, that Rita had left a note for Tina to talk to her about it when she came in later that day. So, after I got dressed (Katie and I were heading to the mall) we went over to the salon first, so I could check out the issue. A miscount in the deposit money. Easily fixed. When I walked in, Tina was at the desk, with a purple binder, a client log, really(one that can be purchased at any beauty supply distributor), and was copying down information from the computer to the binder. Guess what that is?? A big no no. I said nothing at the time, letting what I saw process a bit. And, Tina is good at distracting people into not seeing what she'd just done.
While Katie and I were having lunch at the mall, I texted (not the best form of communication, really) Tina, letting her know that it's not okay to have that binder. When I got home, there was a long winded message on my answering machine (not my cellphone, as she didn't want to "waste" my tracfone minutes leaving a text or message) telling me she's doing that to help trigger her memory with her clients, blah blah blah, THEN, she completely threw Rita under the bus by telling me that she was a good 1/2 hour late with no explanation. She's such a good "friend".
Friday morning, I had a most excellent 20 minute conversation with Shezoa regarding all the shenanigans going on. Rita is to be told that doing hair at home is a conflict of interest and it is to STOP. Particularly since she struggles with commission, she needs to have all of those "buddies" in the salon to fill her chair. It can lead to write ups as well as a dismissal. Tina, the binder is considered theft and she can also be fired if it happens again. I have already confiscated the pages she had and threw them (along with my notes I'd made regarding clients from way back) into the Walmart dumpster out back. She wasn't quite willing to hand over the binder, but it is empty and it is not in the salon any longer. I informed her that if I found it again, she would get an instant write up.
The other thing they tend to do is when they go to do the deposit, they make stops along the way, to get lunch at Subway, or where ever, which isnt' allowed, as it's stealing company time. Which, wait for it...wait for it....can lead to a write up, and a dismissal if it continues.
Stay tuned for another exciting episode!!
The shenanigans going on: Rita, lovely, Rita....sigh....always an angle with her. She asked for April 28th off, as she had "tickets" in NYC. She went of one of those bus trips to see Morgan Freeman...when I asked her if it was a play, a presentation, whatever, she had absolutely no idea what she was going to, just that she had tickets and was going. So, we (meaning myself, Shezoa & Tammy) let her go. Luckily, Erica was hired in the meantime, so the schedule was somewhat covered. (Erica is slow, she's new....if all of us were on yesterday, it wouldn't have been a huge issue)
THEN, Rita also wanted Saturday, May 12 off. To her credit, she asked for it WAY in advance, thinking I'd just give it to her. When I looked at the schedule rotation, it would actually give her an entire weekend (Fri, Sat, Sun) off, which is a big no no. When Erica came on board (mind you, Erica is on a training schedule, so she's not able to do things like open & close just yet. I want her getting used to the "system", the pace, etc.), she immediately presumed she would be able to cover the schedule and Rita would get what she wanted off. Uh, NO. Nice try, though.
This past Monday, Rita tried, yet again, to pester me about May 12. (which is in the middle of prom season...we don't get much in the way of updo's due to the fact that we don't book appointments, but it's also a Saturday, which means all hands on deck). I told her I would have to look at the schedules and see if I could switch anything around (which, really, I didn't want to, but I looked at it anyway). Well, lo and behold, she's scheduled 10-4. Not a big deal. I also asked her WHY she wanted that day off. "I'm doing my niece's hair for prom". DA DUH DUM DUM DUM....
A side note: Doing hair at home, no matter whose it is, according to Regis, is considered a "conflict of interest" and can get you written up and/or terminated.
I went on my two days off, which were Tues & Wed. When I came back, there were notes galore in my station. Rita and Tina put their heads together and plotted around what Rita wanted and presented me with their "solution". Which got instantaneously shot down when Rita asked me about it. "No. You can't have that day off, nor can you switch with anyone. You are scheduled 10-4. I'm not changing the schedule." Mad doesn't even begin to cover Rita's feelings about that one. She stomped around, slamming things. When the phone rang and it was for me, she barked at me about it. (I was on my lunch at the time) When I took my cellphone with me to go out onto the sales floor in Walmart to call my boss, she was standing just outside the salon, away from the door way, griping to a friend of hers about what a witch I am. (didn't hear the words...didn't have to) I placed my call (left a message) and went back to work. It took Rita a good two hours to calm down.
Tina's shenanigans: I had called her Tuesday morning to tell her about an issue with the ladies at the bank when she told me that the closeout book wasn't right, that Rita had left a note for Tina to talk to her about it when she came in later that day. So, after I got dressed (Katie and I were heading to the mall) we went over to the salon first, so I could check out the issue. A miscount in the deposit money. Easily fixed. When I walked in, Tina was at the desk, with a purple binder, a client log, really(one that can be purchased at any beauty supply distributor), and was copying down information from the computer to the binder. Guess what that is?? A big no no. I said nothing at the time, letting what I saw process a bit. And, Tina is good at distracting people into not seeing what she'd just done.
While Katie and I were having lunch at the mall, I texted (not the best form of communication, really) Tina, letting her know that it's not okay to have that binder. When I got home, there was a long winded message on my answering machine (not my cellphone, as she didn't want to "waste" my tracfone minutes leaving a text or message) telling me she's doing that to help trigger her memory with her clients, blah blah blah, THEN, she completely threw Rita under the bus by telling me that she was a good 1/2 hour late with no explanation. She's such a good "friend".
Friday morning, I had a most excellent 20 minute conversation with Shezoa regarding all the shenanigans going on. Rita is to be told that doing hair at home is a conflict of interest and it is to STOP. Particularly since she struggles with commission, she needs to have all of those "buddies" in the salon to fill her chair. It can lead to write ups as well as a dismissal. Tina, the binder is considered theft and she can also be fired if it happens again. I have already confiscated the pages she had and threw them (along with my notes I'd made regarding clients from way back) into the Walmart dumpster out back. She wasn't quite willing to hand over the binder, but it is empty and it is not in the salon any longer. I informed her that if I found it again, she would get an instant write up.
The other thing they tend to do is when they go to do the deposit, they make stops along the way, to get lunch at Subway, or where ever, which isnt' allowed, as it's stealing company time. Which, wait for it...wait for it....can lead to a write up, and a dismissal if it continues.
Stay tuned for another exciting episode!!
Sunday, April 1, 2012
"Chunk" highlights. Who thought of this and WHY?!?!?
I have done "chunk" highlights twice in the last 3 weeks. I think they are the ugliest highlights I've ever done, period. Why anybody would want them is beyond me, but, hey...I'm here to serve you.
What they are: Large bands of color throughout the head, as opposed to small, more natural looking highlights. While this falls under the more "creative" side of hair coloring, I have a really hard time with it. Mostly because I'm a little stuck in my ways, and really, I need to branch out a bit.
Anyway. The first time I did them, I truly had no idea what the heck I was doing. And they came out too subtle for my client. She wanted BOLD highlights. The blonde ones needed to be an INCH wide. Which, in hair, is HUGE in size. So, she came back a week later for me to fix them. Because her hair is so long, (shoulder blades), it took me 3 hours to get all the foils in. Part of that, I believe, is over thinking on my part. Anyway. In the end, she liked the colors, but it wasn't bold enough. So, she came back. That appointment still took two hours to complete. Again, mostly because of the length of her hair. However, when I was done, she had wide BOLD stripes in her hair. (Don't you know, she wondered if the blonde was too much after I was done?? Sigh...)
The second one was just this Friday night. A partial highlight, so not as lengthy, but it still took some serious time. Again, her hair was long, however, not as dense as the last one. I did the highs/lows first: Lightener & 20 vol on regrowth, lightener & 10 vol on ends (previous lightening done) for blonde, 3/4 6N & 1/4 5N for dark stripe, and 6RV & 15 vol for the red stripe. Since this was a partial, I only had to deal with from the crown forward. The underneath stuff in the back was the 6N/5N mixture. Let it process (took a haircut while she was processing, so that made timing that much easier!), then rinsed it off, taking the stripes out, one section at a time and rinsing the daylights out of it so they wouldn't bleed. And they came out just as she wanted them (THANK GOD). Cut her hair, dried it up, checked her out, sent her on her merry way. PHEW!
Something else I discovered about this: I don't charge enough for this one. Need to figure it out for next time!
What they are: Large bands of color throughout the head, as opposed to small, more natural looking highlights. While this falls under the more "creative" side of hair coloring, I have a really hard time with it. Mostly because I'm a little stuck in my ways, and really, I need to branch out a bit.
Anyway. The first time I did them, I truly had no idea what the heck I was doing. And they came out too subtle for my client. She wanted BOLD highlights. The blonde ones needed to be an INCH wide. Which, in hair, is HUGE in size. So, she came back a week later for me to fix them. Because her hair is so long, (shoulder blades), it took me 3 hours to get all the foils in. Part of that, I believe, is over thinking on my part. Anyway. In the end, she liked the colors, but it wasn't bold enough. So, she came back. That appointment still took two hours to complete. Again, mostly because of the length of her hair. However, when I was done, she had wide BOLD stripes in her hair. (Don't you know, she wondered if the blonde was too much after I was done?? Sigh...)
The second one was just this Friday night. A partial highlight, so not as lengthy, but it still took some serious time. Again, her hair was long, however, not as dense as the last one. I did the highs/lows first: Lightener & 20 vol on regrowth, lightener & 10 vol on ends (previous lightening done) for blonde, 3/4 6N & 1/4 5N for dark stripe, and 6RV & 15 vol for the red stripe. Since this was a partial, I only had to deal with from the crown forward. The underneath stuff in the back was the 6N/5N mixture. Let it process (took a haircut while she was processing, so that made timing that much easier!), then rinsed it off, taking the stripes out, one section at a time and rinsing the daylights out of it so they wouldn't bleed. And they came out just as she wanted them (THANK GOD). Cut her hair, dried it up, checked her out, sent her on her merry way. PHEW!
Something else I discovered about this: I don't charge enough for this one. Need to figure it out for next time!
Tuesday, March 20, 2012
Knots...
I took a phone call yesterday from a frantic mother. Her daughter is 8 years old and has a huge snarly knot in the back of her head and she doesn't know what to do any more to get it out. Any suggestions? Yes. Bring her in so someone can look at it and go from there. It's kind of hard to do say anything over the phone. She agreed and brought her in later in the day.
The little girl's hair was pulled back in a loose braid. At first glance, things didn't seem all that bad. And then....I sat her in my chair, took the braid out, and immediately said "Why would you do this to your hair?? If this doesn't come out, I may have to use the clippers on your hair." I grabbed a pick and started working on her dry hair.
Some of the knots started coming out. On the sides of her head wasn't too bad, compared to the HUGE knot (bigger than her actual head) I had yet to tackle. This poor kid wound up in tears because my pulling on her knots was causing serious pain, so I took her to the sink to see what I can wash out and loosen up.
I washer her hair (as best as I could) 3 times to try to loosen things up. I held the sprayer on the actual root of the knot for a good minute, seeing if the pressure would loosen things up. Then, I worked some conditioner into her hair. I bring her back to my chair and dig in again. This time, things go much easier.
Over all, it took me an hour and 15 minutes to deal with that knot. I had to cut out two spots...one of them a smaller area, however the knotting went all the way to the top of her head. The other one I (Literally) chopped at was the jumbo knot in the back. "THWAP" went the chunk I cut out when I tossed it to the floor. Dad came in and took that clump of hair and kept it, to remind daughter of what happens when you don't take care of your hair. Once I got her hair all combed out, there were parts that WEREN'T EVEN WET. That's how bad that knot was.
After I cut the basic shape of her hair, I took her back to the sink and proceeded to wash her hair, AGAIN. This time, I was able to get it CLEAN. Back to my chair to finish the hair cut.
The entire time I was dealing with her hair, I found out that mom is a ding bat....and has no clue what to do with her child. Dad was incredibly frustrated with the both of them, and took what I said to heart. I also think that the daughter will NOT be doing this again, any time too soon, since it was such a painful experience. The kicker?? Mom & Dad had just pulled all those knots out just two weeks ago. Daughter was using a soft bristle hair brush to deal with her hair, which it wasn't able to do. This child has enough hair for 4 people. It's fine (which is why it knotted so badly) and it's slightly wavy. It was also 3/4 of the way down her back, all one length, with a little bit of bang.
Were these people dirty?? Absolutely not. All were very clean, reasonably well educated. However, they were trusting the 8 year old to do a very daunting, intimidating job. Even better was the fact that Mom washes the kid's hair for her, so she knew what was happening, and did nothing to fix the situation until they brought her in to me.
The end result: Her hair was cut to the bottom of her neck (her choice) in a cute, fun hair cut, making it 5 bazillion times easier for her to take care of her hair, which made everyone happy. And, for the first time in a long time, her hair was CLEAN. To the scalp clean. One thing I've learned from this: I need to charge WAY more for dealing with that mess than what I did. Let's hope I only see her for hair cuts and not to get that knot out again.
Lesson learned.
The little girl's hair was pulled back in a loose braid. At first glance, things didn't seem all that bad. And then....I sat her in my chair, took the braid out, and immediately said "Why would you do this to your hair?? If this doesn't come out, I may have to use the clippers on your hair." I grabbed a pick and started working on her dry hair.
Some of the knots started coming out. On the sides of her head wasn't too bad, compared to the HUGE knot (bigger than her actual head) I had yet to tackle. This poor kid wound up in tears because my pulling on her knots was causing serious pain, so I took her to the sink to see what I can wash out and loosen up.
I washer her hair (as best as I could) 3 times to try to loosen things up. I held the sprayer on the actual root of the knot for a good minute, seeing if the pressure would loosen things up. Then, I worked some conditioner into her hair. I bring her back to my chair and dig in again. This time, things go much easier.
Over all, it took me an hour and 15 minutes to deal with that knot. I had to cut out two spots...one of them a smaller area, however the knotting went all the way to the top of her head. The other one I (Literally) chopped at was the jumbo knot in the back. "THWAP" went the chunk I cut out when I tossed it to the floor. Dad came in and took that clump of hair and kept it, to remind daughter of what happens when you don't take care of your hair. Once I got her hair all combed out, there were parts that WEREN'T EVEN WET. That's how bad that knot was.
After I cut the basic shape of her hair, I took her back to the sink and proceeded to wash her hair, AGAIN. This time, I was able to get it CLEAN. Back to my chair to finish the hair cut.
The entire time I was dealing with her hair, I found out that mom is a ding bat....and has no clue what to do with her child. Dad was incredibly frustrated with the both of them, and took what I said to heart. I also think that the daughter will NOT be doing this again, any time too soon, since it was such a painful experience. The kicker?? Mom & Dad had just pulled all those knots out just two weeks ago. Daughter was using a soft bristle hair brush to deal with her hair, which it wasn't able to do. This child has enough hair for 4 people. It's fine (which is why it knotted so badly) and it's slightly wavy. It was also 3/4 of the way down her back, all one length, with a little bit of bang.
Were these people dirty?? Absolutely not. All were very clean, reasonably well educated. However, they were trusting the 8 year old to do a very daunting, intimidating job. Even better was the fact that Mom washes the kid's hair for her, so she knew what was happening, and did nothing to fix the situation until they brought her in to me.
The end result: Her hair was cut to the bottom of her neck (her choice) in a cute, fun hair cut, making it 5 bazillion times easier for her to take care of her hair, which made everyone happy. And, for the first time in a long time, her hair was CLEAN. To the scalp clean. One thing I've learned from this: I need to charge WAY more for dealing with that mess than what I did. Let's hope I only see her for hair cuts and not to get that knot out again.
Lesson learned.
Sunday, March 18, 2012
Things I've read today
Whilst scanning through a renowned color guru's Facebook page, I came across these comments, pertaining to permanent color. And, I thought I'd share them and my reaction to them.
"Permanent color that faded in two weeks". Apparently, this person still hasn't learned what's permanent about permanent hair color. It's not the dye load, it's the lifting action that's permanent. That being said, how you care for your newly colored hair is just as important as what you color it with. If you're using the wrong shampoo and screaming hot water to wash your hair with, of course the color won't last. However, if you're using sulfate-free shampoos, an acidic conditioner to close the cuticle, and moderate temperature water to wash & rinse with, you should have better success in maintaining your color between appointments.
"Organic" hair color: Unless you are using good, old fashioned HENNA (the kind that turns hair orange and is used to tattoo your hands during sacred ceremonies of the Hindu faith), there isn't a hair color out there that is "organic"...which, by the way, is a non-regulated word used by manufacturers of various products to get you to purchase whatever it is. It's a "buzz word". Oh, and the other "by the way"?? If you look at things this way: Things are either organic or inorganic. Something that is "organic" is living matter, animal, or vegetable, carbon based. Something that is "Inorganic" is non-living or mineral based. Which means, basically, that all hair color is both organic and inorganic, depending upon it's ingredients.
"Lift and deposit in the same application" This comment was said in wonder, like they've never heard of it before. What planet are you from?? ALL permanent color, whether it's the "non-ammonia" or ammonia based color, lifts first, to create a base for the color to adhere to, then deposits the artificial color after. Please get some education.
"Ammonia is effective because it's incredibly corrosive and extrordinarily destructive to the cuticle and sacrafices the hair's health and structural intregity". This one is a double-edged sword. With multiple applications, YES, ammonia is corrosive and destructive and will definitely sacrafice the hair health and structural integrity. Ammonia continues to swell the hair shaft, therefore pushing the cuticle open even further, making your hair feel dry. Because this cuticle is open, it also allows the dyeload to "pile up" in the hair shaft, making the strand darker with each application. That's why you'll see people with lighter colored hair at the top of the head and nearly BLACK hair at the ends. This is NOT the trendy "Ombre" look, my friends. THIS is damanged hair.
Something that also happens with color build up (and this even happens with demi and semi permanent colors) is that the hair will break off after a period of time. Hair can only take so much of a "beating" before it just gives up. And, this can happen both at home and with a professional. It's a bit hard to avoid. Careful formulation goes a long way to keeping the intregity of the hair intact. Careful application of color goes a long way, also. Don't overlap the product. Don't "run" the permanent color through the ends of the hair beyond a virgin application of color to hair that's never been colored before. And educate your clients on how to properly take care of their hair.
"Permanent color that faded in two weeks". Apparently, this person still hasn't learned what's permanent about permanent hair color. It's not the dye load, it's the lifting action that's permanent. That being said, how you care for your newly colored hair is just as important as what you color it with. If you're using the wrong shampoo and screaming hot water to wash your hair with, of course the color won't last. However, if you're using sulfate-free shampoos, an acidic conditioner to close the cuticle, and moderate temperature water to wash & rinse with, you should have better success in maintaining your color between appointments.
"Organic" hair color: Unless you are using good, old fashioned HENNA (the kind that turns hair orange and is used to tattoo your hands during sacred ceremonies of the Hindu faith), there isn't a hair color out there that is "organic"...which, by the way, is a non-regulated word used by manufacturers of various products to get you to purchase whatever it is. It's a "buzz word". Oh, and the other "by the way"?? If you look at things this way: Things are either organic or inorganic. Something that is "organic" is living matter, animal, or vegetable, carbon based. Something that is "Inorganic" is non-living or mineral based. Which means, basically, that all hair color is both organic and inorganic, depending upon it's ingredients.
"Lift and deposit in the same application" This comment was said in wonder, like they've never heard of it before. What planet are you from?? ALL permanent color, whether it's the "non-ammonia" or ammonia based color, lifts first, to create a base for the color to adhere to, then deposits the artificial color after. Please get some education.
"Ammonia is effective because it's incredibly corrosive and extrordinarily destructive to the cuticle and sacrafices the hair's health and structural intregity". This one is a double-edged sword. With multiple applications, YES, ammonia is corrosive and destructive and will definitely sacrafice the hair health and structural integrity. Ammonia continues to swell the hair shaft, therefore pushing the cuticle open even further, making your hair feel dry. Because this cuticle is open, it also allows the dyeload to "pile up" in the hair shaft, making the strand darker with each application. That's why you'll see people with lighter colored hair at the top of the head and nearly BLACK hair at the ends. This is NOT the trendy "Ombre" look, my friends. THIS is damanged hair.
Something that also happens with color build up (and this even happens with demi and semi permanent colors) is that the hair will break off after a period of time. Hair can only take so much of a "beating" before it just gives up. And, this can happen both at home and with a professional. It's a bit hard to avoid. Careful formulation goes a long way to keeping the intregity of the hair intact. Careful application of color goes a long way, also. Don't overlap the product. Don't "run" the permanent color through the ends of the hair beyond a virgin application of color to hair that's never been colored before. And educate your clients on how to properly take care of their hair.
Saturday, March 17, 2012
My own color disaster....
My regrowth needed to be done. We NEVER have time at work, due to the fact that we're ridiculously busy most of the time. So, it's up to me to get it done. So, I went to the local professional product distributor and picked up what I needed. I also talked Katie into doing most of my color work for me (she's seriously toying with going to cosmetology school after high school, so, here's some practice!)
Step one: A color balancing. This is a mixture of shampoo, lightener, & developer, mixed in a bowl. Katie sectioned my hair (4 quadrants), then sub sectioned it to apply the product, omitting my regrowth, to lighten my hair. (repeated applications of demi permanent color eventually causes the hair to get progressively darker, thus making my hair look brownish). This sat on my hair, capped, for 30 minutes. Which, as it turned out, was about 10 minutes too long. My hair turned apricot colored.
Not necessarily a big deal, really. It will still support red hair. So, I had Katie apply my permanent color formula to my regrowth. Over all, my hair didn't look too bad...Katie's application was fine, by the way...just too light. (kind of "strawberry"-ish)
So, Wednesday morning, after I take Katie to school, I mix up the formula for my ends. I have neglected to tell you that all of this color is from Matrix, and it's all the "HD" color...."High Definition", which really means intense pigment. I apply the color, cap my hair, let it sit for 30 minutes, then wash it out. HOLY RED HAIR. And not Lucille Ball red. Not Orphan Annie red, not Rita Hayworth red. Freakin' RONALD MCDONALD RED!!! It was an intense shade of red when WET (when hair usually looks quite dark). So, I scrambled in the bin of color that I have, looking for a remedy.
I had also foiled other colors into my bangs: An RV, CR & 1 foil of lightener. Since I liked how that came out, I left my bangs out when I covered my hair with 3/4 6N & 1/4 6CG (natural & copper gold). And, because my hair is a bit trashed from the color balancing, my ends are a bit, well...crispy. (I'm also waaaay overdue for a haircut). However, my ends are now a coppery brown (not my best color, but it'll work til I can get my hair trimmed up) and my bangs have some craziness going on. Which works for me.
Lesson learned?? Don't leave the color balancing on so damn long!! And refill the color stash so I can correct the mistakes a bit better.
Oh well.
Step one: A color balancing. This is a mixture of shampoo, lightener, & developer, mixed in a bowl. Katie sectioned my hair (4 quadrants), then sub sectioned it to apply the product, omitting my regrowth, to lighten my hair. (repeated applications of demi permanent color eventually causes the hair to get progressively darker, thus making my hair look brownish). This sat on my hair, capped, for 30 minutes. Which, as it turned out, was about 10 minutes too long. My hair turned apricot colored.
Not necessarily a big deal, really. It will still support red hair. So, I had Katie apply my permanent color formula to my regrowth. Over all, my hair didn't look too bad...Katie's application was fine, by the way...just too light. (kind of "strawberry"-ish)
So, Wednesday morning, after I take Katie to school, I mix up the formula for my ends. I have neglected to tell you that all of this color is from Matrix, and it's all the "HD" color...."High Definition", which really means intense pigment. I apply the color, cap my hair, let it sit for 30 minutes, then wash it out. HOLY RED HAIR. And not Lucille Ball red. Not Orphan Annie red, not Rita Hayworth red. Freakin' RONALD MCDONALD RED!!! It was an intense shade of red when WET (when hair usually looks quite dark). So, I scrambled in the bin of color that I have, looking for a remedy.
I had also foiled other colors into my bangs: An RV, CR & 1 foil of lightener. Since I liked how that came out, I left my bangs out when I covered my hair with 3/4 6N & 1/4 6CG (natural & copper gold). And, because my hair is a bit trashed from the color balancing, my ends are a bit, well...crispy. (I'm also waaaay overdue for a haircut). However, my ends are now a coppery brown (not my best color, but it'll work til I can get my hair trimmed up) and my bangs have some craziness going on. Which works for me.
Lesson learned?? Don't leave the color balancing on so damn long!! And refill the color stash so I can correct the mistakes a bit better.
Oh well.
Friday, March 16, 2012
Why I haven't been on in, like, FOREVER....
Work has been increasingly busy. Which is a good thing. Except when you're understaffed. Then, it's an issue. On the one hand, I'm making some serious money. On the other hand, I'm seriously tired and a bit stressed out from the pace. I'm getting used to it, so it's not as bad as it was, physically.
I also struggle with the changes I've made in regard to what I blog about. I started this blog as a bitch fest and decided to change it so I wasn't complaining quite so much. Since I've done that, I've limited my outlets for complaining. Sigh.
I don't just talk to hear myself talk. I try to use the complaining constructively to sort out what is going on and just how to cope with it. It doesn't always work. My aunt will regularly inform me of her opinion, and not always in a positive light. Which is fine, I can take it. I'm sure she sees me as a complete whiner. Truly, I'm not. However, I need to get this toxic crap out of my system. I've always been one to "journal" things....this is just a more open format.
So, I'm at a loss as to what to do. Keep it positive all the time, or every once in a while, let it loose??
I also struggle with the changes I've made in regard to what I blog about. I started this blog as a bitch fest and decided to change it so I wasn't complaining quite so much. Since I've done that, I've limited my outlets for complaining. Sigh.
I don't just talk to hear myself talk. I try to use the complaining constructively to sort out what is going on and just how to cope with it. It doesn't always work. My aunt will regularly inform me of her opinion, and not always in a positive light. Which is fine, I can take it. I'm sure she sees me as a complete whiner. Truly, I'm not. However, I need to get this toxic crap out of my system. I've always been one to "journal" things....this is just a more open format.
So, I'm at a loss as to what to do. Keep it positive all the time, or every once in a while, let it loose??
Tuesday, February 14, 2012
Harsh hair color...and overplucked eyebrows...
There are times when I wish I could just sit and people watch, all day long. The things I see are just too whatever to make up (stupid, silly, etc.) I was in Walmart the other day (not the store I actually work in) and noticed a cashier's hair color and eyebrows. Sigh.
She's probably around my age (43), maybe a titch younger or older, kind of hard to tell. Anyway, she's got those tell tale bags under her eyes, which tells me she's not living a "clean" life (cigarettes, drinking, idiots in her life). Otherwise, her skin was pretty clear (bonus in her favor). Her hair color is quite dark (artificially so), and her eyebrows are plucked with a poor shape and practically non-existent, which makes her facial features stand out in an unattractive way. I'm not saying I'm the most beautiful person on the planet...to the contrary, I usually look very "relaxed" when I'm out and about on my days off. However, this person was at WORK....she needs a make over, STAT!!
First thing I'd do...counsel her to step away from the tweezers. Get her to let the poor things grow back in so we can actually see the shape they're supposed to be and work on them to get them there. There's nothing worse than looking permanently surprised....Once the shape has been established, and getting her used to how they look, she will notice a HUGE difference in how people perceive what she looks like. I know, it sounds shallow, but it's true. A well groomed brow makes all the difference!! (just look at anyone who gets their unibrow taken care of....what a huge difference!!)
Then, her color. Right now, the only thing that can be done is to A) some very well placed highlights to lighten up her overall color. Continue to highlight her for at least 3 total visits (spread out over the course of at least a year). While these highlights are going on, taking care of her regrowth is very important. I'd be using a lighter color, even if it's only one shade lighter, to move things along, making sure it all blends accordingly. Once the highlights are plentiful, I would then start using a tinted glaze over the whole thing to bring the highlights to a newer, lighter shade of brown, which would be infinitely more pleasing than the harsh dark brown she currently has.
The one thing I'd explain to her is that this process takes TIME. It cannot and should not be done in one visit. The first visit would be a partial highlight to lighten up the over all color....fine highlights, spread out so there's a subtle change, making sure the highlights are placed so there is no obvious line of demarcation. Depending upon how much grey is being covered, I may not touch the regrowth areas, or I might start the process of making her overall color a half shade lighter.
The next appointment, I'd add another layer of highlights, the same amount as before, placed slightly closer together, to break up the color even more, and continue to touch up her regrowth with the new overall formula. The third appointment (the highlight appointments should be placed roughly 2-3 months apart. The retouch of her regrowth should be every month to ensure good coverage of any grey hair) would be the final application of highlights, still placed so there is no obvious line of demarcation. At this appointment, I would match up a glaze color to coordinate with her new base color, lightening up her hair overall without damaging her hair. The glaze will be a demi permanent color, which contains NO ammonia of any kind. This will close down the cuticle and make the hair appear shiny and smooth, which equals healthy hair!!
Is this an expensive process, over all?? Yes. Is it worth the time and money?? Absolutely. Lightening up that harsh hair color does a number of things, most importantly, it makes you look younger than you are. The darker the hair color, the older and harsher you look. No matter how pretty you are, you will look HARSH and OLD with dark hair. Why do you think all the kids want to dye their hair jet black???
She's probably around my age (43), maybe a titch younger or older, kind of hard to tell. Anyway, she's got those tell tale bags under her eyes, which tells me she's not living a "clean" life (cigarettes, drinking, idiots in her life). Otherwise, her skin was pretty clear (bonus in her favor). Her hair color is quite dark (artificially so), and her eyebrows are plucked with a poor shape and practically non-existent, which makes her facial features stand out in an unattractive way. I'm not saying I'm the most beautiful person on the planet...to the contrary, I usually look very "relaxed" when I'm out and about on my days off. However, this person was at WORK....she needs a make over, STAT!!
First thing I'd do...counsel her to step away from the tweezers. Get her to let the poor things grow back in so we can actually see the shape they're supposed to be and work on them to get them there. There's nothing worse than looking permanently surprised....Once the shape has been established, and getting her used to how they look, she will notice a HUGE difference in how people perceive what she looks like. I know, it sounds shallow, but it's true. A well groomed brow makes all the difference!! (just look at anyone who gets their unibrow taken care of....what a huge difference!!)
Then, her color. Right now, the only thing that can be done is to A) some very well placed highlights to lighten up her overall color. Continue to highlight her for at least 3 total visits (spread out over the course of at least a year). While these highlights are going on, taking care of her regrowth is very important. I'd be using a lighter color, even if it's only one shade lighter, to move things along, making sure it all blends accordingly. Once the highlights are plentiful, I would then start using a tinted glaze over the whole thing to bring the highlights to a newer, lighter shade of brown, which would be infinitely more pleasing than the harsh dark brown she currently has.
The one thing I'd explain to her is that this process takes TIME. It cannot and should not be done in one visit. The first visit would be a partial highlight to lighten up the over all color....fine highlights, spread out so there's a subtle change, making sure the highlights are placed so there is no obvious line of demarcation. Depending upon how much grey is being covered, I may not touch the regrowth areas, or I might start the process of making her overall color a half shade lighter.
The next appointment, I'd add another layer of highlights, the same amount as before, placed slightly closer together, to break up the color even more, and continue to touch up her regrowth with the new overall formula. The third appointment (the highlight appointments should be placed roughly 2-3 months apart. The retouch of her regrowth should be every month to ensure good coverage of any grey hair) would be the final application of highlights, still placed so there is no obvious line of demarcation. At this appointment, I would match up a glaze color to coordinate with her new base color, lightening up her hair overall without damaging her hair. The glaze will be a demi permanent color, which contains NO ammonia of any kind. This will close down the cuticle and make the hair appear shiny and smooth, which equals healthy hair!!
Is this an expensive process, over all?? Yes. Is it worth the time and money?? Absolutely. Lightening up that harsh hair color does a number of things, most importantly, it makes you look younger than you are. The darker the hair color, the older and harsher you look. No matter how pretty you are, you will look HARSH and OLD with dark hair. Why do you think all the kids want to dye their hair jet black???
Thursday, February 9, 2012
Never trust the formula in front of you...
A lesson that gets taught, A LOT in this industry is to never trust the formula in front of you. Here's the scenario:
You've got a client in your chair. Their last color service was not performed by you. You go get their color card, check the formula, mix it up, apply it, time it, rinse it....it's too light. What happened?? You scramble & reapply the color, using a darker formula. PHEW!!
What happened: You trusted that what the person did before you was accurate.
In the case of last night, it was. But it was nearly a year ago that this nice lady received a color in our salon.
What didn't happen: A thorough consultation and color analysis.
What else happened: This nice lady has been coloring her hair at home and decided to treat herself to a salon service. What should have taken a couple of hours, tops (including hair cut & style along with the color) took 3 hours because the color had to be reapplied...at no cost to the client.
This was Tina's episode of "The Mad Hairdresser" last night (Mad as in crazy, not angry). In Tina's defense, she was MOBBED last night. I only found out about it because I went in at the end of the night to get my color done! It's one of those "honest" mistakes....however, it does tend to stick in the client's mind that this hairdresser screwed up and maybe I shouldn't go to her again. Hopefully, that won't happen.
You've got a client in your chair. Their last color service was not performed by you. You go get their color card, check the formula, mix it up, apply it, time it, rinse it....it's too light. What happened?? You scramble & reapply the color, using a darker formula. PHEW!!
What happened: You trusted that what the person did before you was accurate.
In the case of last night, it was. But it was nearly a year ago that this nice lady received a color in our salon.
What didn't happen: A thorough consultation and color analysis.
What else happened: This nice lady has been coloring her hair at home and decided to treat herself to a salon service. What should have taken a couple of hours, tops (including hair cut & style along with the color) took 3 hours because the color had to be reapplied...at no cost to the client.
This was Tina's episode of "The Mad Hairdresser" last night (Mad as in crazy, not angry). In Tina's defense, she was MOBBED last night. I only found out about it because I went in at the end of the night to get my color done! It's one of those "honest" mistakes....however, it does tend to stick in the client's mind that this hairdresser screwed up and maybe I shouldn't go to her again. Hopefully, that won't happen.
Tuesday, February 7, 2012
Updates, bulletins as they happen!
So, I got a phone call yesterday....WE HAVE AN AREA SUPERVISOR!! WOO HOO!!!
Sorry....just a little excited about this...
I got to speak to Zoe for about 5 minutes. I can't wait to actually have a "sit down" with her!!! In the interim, I plan on having a whole bunch of notes to refer to, when the time comes. We have LOTS to talk about!!!
Sorry....just a little excited about this...
I got to speak to Zoe for about 5 minutes. I can't wait to actually have a "sit down" with her!!! In the interim, I plan on having a whole bunch of notes to refer to, when the time comes. We have LOTS to talk about!!!
Saturday, February 4, 2012
Corrective Color...
So, this client walks in yesterday, after calling us in a panic, because she colored her hair at home, and it didn't come out the way she wanted it and she wants us to fix it. Oh, goodie. On the one hand, I love a challenge. On the other, great, what the heck is coming in.
Well, she walked in, and I saw who it was. Tanya has been coming in since we opened. We've all had her and we've all tried to talk her into getting her color done here so we can minimize the damage that's been done. Tanya's hair is both thin and fine. She wants it long, it's already pin straight, and she continually damages it by doing her color at home. The stupid thing is that she finally figured out how to get the right color combination in her hair, on her own, and then she let her friend wreck her hair!!
So, here's what she did. She decided, a while back, to add a small bit of warmth to her hair, in the form of red highlights. Just a little bit, and just in the bottom nape section of her hair. She liked it so much, she decided to do more. This is were the fun begins. Her friend pulled her hair through a cap. Because she didn't realize, while pulling her hair through, that she has NO HAIR, the friend managed to pull ALL her hair through the cap. And proceeded to paint the red color onto her hair.
When Tanya came in yesterday, her hair looked kind of fun....like fire, really....However, she didn't like the color and wanted it stripped out. Well, because I know the condition of her hair, I refused to strip the color out. And I explained why...her hair will disintegrate and break off. So, we came to the conclusion, together, that she needed to darken her hair to cover up all the red.
I also explained to her (while I was finishing up my perm client, who she wanted me to ditch to deal with her hot mess) that since the red is a dominant color, it's going to hang around for a long time. And, no matter what I do to her hair, it will fade and that red will come right back through. She wants her blonde back in a big way. All I would commit to is that it will be a LONG time before we can safely take her back to blonde. She truly needs to leave her hair ALONE.
I highly doubt she will, though.
Well, she walked in, and I saw who it was. Tanya has been coming in since we opened. We've all had her and we've all tried to talk her into getting her color done here so we can minimize the damage that's been done. Tanya's hair is both thin and fine. She wants it long, it's already pin straight, and she continually damages it by doing her color at home. The stupid thing is that she finally figured out how to get the right color combination in her hair, on her own, and then she let her friend wreck her hair!!
So, here's what she did. She decided, a while back, to add a small bit of warmth to her hair, in the form of red highlights. Just a little bit, and just in the bottom nape section of her hair. She liked it so much, she decided to do more. This is were the fun begins. Her friend pulled her hair through a cap. Because she didn't realize, while pulling her hair through, that she has NO HAIR, the friend managed to pull ALL her hair through the cap. And proceeded to paint the red color onto her hair.
When Tanya came in yesterday, her hair looked kind of fun....like fire, really....However, she didn't like the color and wanted it stripped out. Well, because I know the condition of her hair, I refused to strip the color out. And I explained why...her hair will disintegrate and break off. So, we came to the conclusion, together, that she needed to darken her hair to cover up all the red.
I also explained to her (while I was finishing up my perm client, who she wanted me to ditch to deal with her hot mess) that since the red is a dominant color, it's going to hang around for a long time. And, no matter what I do to her hair, it will fade and that red will come right back through. She wants her blonde back in a big way. All I would commit to is that it will be a LONG time before we can safely take her back to blonde. She truly needs to leave her hair ALONE.
I highly doubt she will, though.
Monday, January 23, 2012
Highlights & Lowlights....
So, I was on the Smartstyles Facebook page the other day, and came across an angry parent, who posted pictures on HER facebook page regarding the color job her daughter received. Once I looked at the pictures, I could immediately tell what went wrong, all the way around.
Here's what happened: Client went in, with level 6-7 hair, wanting bleach highlights and red low lights. Sounds pretty simple, right?? Well, it is, if you know what you're doing and if you're up on the current education. By the looks of this color job, I'd say the stylist wasn't up on the current education
Highlights were done with bleach, pretty straight foreward. The only mistake I could see was that the stylist should have used a lower volume developer, so the processing was slow & steady, to keep the damage to a minimum. The red low lights?? Well, that's where the "fun" begins.
To start with, permanent color was used. How could I tell?? The regrowth area were a nice, vibrant color, then ends were washed out. Problem #1. Demi permanent color should have been used instead for a deep, rich color.
Problem #2: When mom dragged teenage daughter back to the salon to get her low lights "fixed", the stylist should have gone back in with a similar, if not the same formula in demi permanent color, and picked through the hair to locate as much of the red as possible to go over it again, to intensify the color. This also didn't happen. More of the permanent color was used.
The end result?? The girl's hair faded to a weird pinkish color. Her hair looks FRIED, too.
What should have happened (if it didn't already): A THOROUGH consultation, to determine what color was desired. Then, if we're dealing with a relatively inexperienced stylist, some assistance from a more experienced stylist to help formulate. Also, a conversation with the client (and client's parent) about the fact that reds fade the quickest, so what to expect should have been part of the conversation.
What to expect: Because "red" has a large dye molecule, it is the quickest to fade because each molecule covers a much larger area than molecules for blonde or brown. So, the rich, vibrant color will FADE to something weird, relatively quickly. To help combat this, using the right color safe (sulfate free) shampoo or smoothing shampoo (which closes down the cuticle, keeping the color intact) along with washing the hair in TEPID water (hot water pushes the color out faster) will go a long way to keeping the hair color intact. IF you're going to insist on washing your hair in the hottest water imaginable, (and you're in the shower) get your hair washed and conditioned, pinned up out of the way, and GET YOUR HEAD OUT OF THE WATER. The easiest way to do this?? Turn around and face the water spray. Usually, I'll leave the conditioner on my hair, pin it up, finish my shower, then drop my hair down at the last minute to rinse it before I get out of the shower. Doing all of this ensures my red lasts as long as possible. Works every time.
Reds are difficult to work with, from a client point of view. They require a lot of TLC in order to last as long as possible. If you're not willing to put in the care that must be involved, reds aren't for you.
Here's what happened: Client went in, with level 6-7 hair, wanting bleach highlights and red low lights. Sounds pretty simple, right?? Well, it is, if you know what you're doing and if you're up on the current education. By the looks of this color job, I'd say the stylist wasn't up on the current education
Highlights were done with bleach, pretty straight foreward. The only mistake I could see was that the stylist should have used a lower volume developer, so the processing was slow & steady, to keep the damage to a minimum. The red low lights?? Well, that's where the "fun" begins.
To start with, permanent color was used. How could I tell?? The regrowth area were a nice, vibrant color, then ends were washed out. Problem #1. Demi permanent color should have been used instead for a deep, rich color.
Problem #2: When mom dragged teenage daughter back to the salon to get her low lights "fixed", the stylist should have gone back in with a similar, if not the same formula in demi permanent color, and picked through the hair to locate as much of the red as possible to go over it again, to intensify the color. This also didn't happen. More of the permanent color was used.
The end result?? The girl's hair faded to a weird pinkish color. Her hair looks FRIED, too.
What should have happened (if it didn't already): A THOROUGH consultation, to determine what color was desired. Then, if we're dealing with a relatively inexperienced stylist, some assistance from a more experienced stylist to help formulate. Also, a conversation with the client (and client's parent) about the fact that reds fade the quickest, so what to expect should have been part of the conversation.
What to expect: Because "red" has a large dye molecule, it is the quickest to fade because each molecule covers a much larger area than molecules for blonde or brown. So, the rich, vibrant color will FADE to something weird, relatively quickly. To help combat this, using the right color safe (sulfate free) shampoo or smoothing shampoo (which closes down the cuticle, keeping the color intact) along with washing the hair in TEPID water (hot water pushes the color out faster) will go a long way to keeping the hair color intact. IF you're going to insist on washing your hair in the hottest water imaginable, (and you're in the shower) get your hair washed and conditioned, pinned up out of the way, and GET YOUR HEAD OUT OF THE WATER. The easiest way to do this?? Turn around and face the water spray. Usually, I'll leave the conditioner on my hair, pin it up, finish my shower, then drop my hair down at the last minute to rinse it before I get out of the shower. Doing all of this ensures my red lasts as long as possible. Works every time.
Reds are difficult to work with, from a client point of view. They require a lot of TLC in order to last as long as possible. If you're not willing to put in the care that must be involved, reds aren't for you.
Wednesday, January 11, 2012
Plotting and Planning
I do a lot of plotting & planning in my life. When it comes to hair color, I MUST plot & plan--otherwise, your color doesn't come out as it should. When I finish your color, and I see the results of my efforts, sometimes I plot & plan for the next time you come in, so I can tweak the formula.
I'm also plotting & planning how to spend my tax money when I get it back (realize I haven't even received all the necessary paperwork to start this process). My income has increased, which means the few benefits I've received from the state have decreased. Therefore, what used to be (sorta) "disposable" income is no longer that. So, when my tax money comes back, a portion of it will go towards purchasing the sundry items that I need in order for my household to function.
Such as: Paper towel, toilet paper, laundry supplies, cat supplies, dish soap, sponges. I'm also spending a chunk on the car, if needed. The suspension type stuff (shocks, struts, springs) need a look-see to make sure they're not faulty, and my exhaust needs a look at, also. A chunk will go towards my latest educational needs. Michael Cole has a bunch of stuff I'm wanting, David Velasco has a second set of books that I want. And, of course, the child's birthday is coming in March. Since she's the only child I'll EVER have, her birthday is always a big thing. Birthday parties, for me, stopped when I was about 10 years old. I had sleep overs after that. Katie will have birthday parties until she tells me to stop. (which I don't think she'll do) And, I'm due for some new clothing, as well. My black shirts I wear to work are starting to look greenish. And, my pants are wearing OUT. I need new shoes for work, too. And new sneakers for walking as well as banging around. So, as you can see, my money is always well spent. Oh, yeah...vehicle registration and my cosmetology license will be up for renewal, too.
What are you plotting and planning??
I'm also plotting & planning how to spend my tax money when I get it back (realize I haven't even received all the necessary paperwork to start this process). My income has increased, which means the few benefits I've received from the state have decreased. Therefore, what used to be (sorta) "disposable" income is no longer that. So, when my tax money comes back, a portion of it will go towards purchasing the sundry items that I need in order for my household to function.
Such as: Paper towel, toilet paper, laundry supplies, cat supplies, dish soap, sponges. I'm also spending a chunk on the car, if needed. The suspension type stuff (shocks, struts, springs) need a look-see to make sure they're not faulty, and my exhaust needs a look at, also. A chunk will go towards my latest educational needs. Michael Cole has a bunch of stuff I'm wanting, David Velasco has a second set of books that I want. And, of course, the child's birthday is coming in March. Since she's the only child I'll EVER have, her birthday is always a big thing. Birthday parties, for me, stopped when I was about 10 years old. I had sleep overs after that. Katie will have birthday parties until she tells me to stop. (which I don't think she'll do) And, I'm due for some new clothing, as well. My black shirts I wear to work are starting to look greenish. And, my pants are wearing OUT. I need new shoes for work, too. And new sneakers for walking as well as banging around. So, as you can see, my money is always well spent. Oh, yeah...vehicle registration and my cosmetology license will be up for renewal, too.
What are you plotting and planning??
Tuesday, January 10, 2012
The Legacy is over...
At one point, there was a salon around here that everyone flocked to. They were the premier stylists in the area. Their education and expertise was unparalleled. I was lucky enough (in some ways) to work for this salon as a receptionist. It's where I finally felt like I belonged, and I've learned so much from all of my experiences there.
Notice how that paragraph is in the past tense?? So is that salon. On Saturday, December 31st, this salon became history. Being that I was on the inside track for a long time, it wasn't a complete surprise to me. When the owner was alive, he was clearly the business mind behind everything they did. When he past away, his wife and son tried to step up to the plate and continue where he left off. Nine years later, they are closed.
While I worked there, (the last time) there were some MAJOR differences between management styles. He ran a tight ship. Everyone knew what was expected of them and everyone worked as a team. Of course, there were hiccups along the way. Not everyone always got along with each other, and he was notorious for having it out with someone on the salon floor, including his wife. (it was embarrassing to be a witness to these things. I always felt so bad for the person he cornered)
At one point, there were a total of 19 people working in this one salon, including 3 receptionists. It was a wild, crazy time. Were there underhanded shenanigans going on?? Sure. There's nothing quite like being set up (by the person who lobbied hard to get you a job there) so they can fire you. But, it was still a fabulous learning experience. I actually worked there a total of 3 times, equalling just under 4 years . It's where I got bit by the hairdressing bug in a big way.
When I went back the last time, it was very different. His wife ran everything loosey goosey. Suddenly, it was okay to come to work in jeans, as long as you were dressed up. (which felt WEIRD...I did it exactly once. Never did it again.) The person who was established as Salon Manager was probably the worst person for the job. She was a back stabbing tattletale. Not to mention one of the biggest ass-kissers I'd ever met, in my life. Between her and the owner's son (who had NO CLUE) what he was doing, they both managed to run the salon into the ground. And, lord knows, the owner's wife did everything she could to salvage that business, including mortgage her house to death and spend through all her retirement savings. At 67 years old, she's having to start over and still work as much as she can, just to keep her head above water. I don't envy her one bit.
What does this mean for me?? Nothing, really. I was a part of the history of that place. And all my experiences there, both good and bad, have made me the stylist/manager that I am, both good and bad.
Notice how that paragraph is in the past tense?? So is that salon. On Saturday, December 31st, this salon became history. Being that I was on the inside track for a long time, it wasn't a complete surprise to me. When the owner was alive, he was clearly the business mind behind everything they did. When he past away, his wife and son tried to step up to the plate and continue where he left off. Nine years later, they are closed.
While I worked there, (the last time) there were some MAJOR differences between management styles. He ran a tight ship. Everyone knew what was expected of them and everyone worked as a team. Of course, there were hiccups along the way. Not everyone always got along with each other, and he was notorious for having it out with someone on the salon floor, including his wife. (it was embarrassing to be a witness to these things. I always felt so bad for the person he cornered)
At one point, there were a total of 19 people working in this one salon, including 3 receptionists. It was a wild, crazy time. Were there underhanded shenanigans going on?? Sure. There's nothing quite like being set up (by the person who lobbied hard to get you a job there) so they can fire you. But, it was still a fabulous learning experience. I actually worked there a total of 3 times, equalling just under 4 years . It's where I got bit by the hairdressing bug in a big way.
When I went back the last time, it was very different. His wife ran everything loosey goosey. Suddenly, it was okay to come to work in jeans, as long as you were dressed up. (which felt WEIRD...I did it exactly once. Never did it again.) The person who was established as Salon Manager was probably the worst person for the job. She was a back stabbing tattletale. Not to mention one of the biggest ass-kissers I'd ever met, in my life. Between her and the owner's son (who had NO CLUE) what he was doing, they both managed to run the salon into the ground. And, lord knows, the owner's wife did everything she could to salvage that business, including mortgage her house to death and spend through all her retirement savings. At 67 years old, she's having to start over and still work as much as she can, just to keep her head above water. I don't envy her one bit.
What does this mean for me?? Nothing, really. I was a part of the history of that place. And all my experiences there, both good and bad, have made me the stylist/manager that I am, both good and bad.
Saturday, January 7, 2012
What a week!
Each of us has a sales quota, based on how many hours a week we work, then it's broken down by each day, for both services & retail. I did this when I worked at my old salon, just using my previous sales figures & giving myself a 10% increase.
This industry is very much feast or famine. I went into this knowing that information. And, I went into this industry knowing there are certain times of the year when it's DEAD....Usually, it's from Labor Day to Thanksgiving, then January to March. We started getting quiet the week of Christmas...I was the only one who made commission, BARELY. The next week, I was the only one who DIDN'T make commission. This week?? I'm $100 away from getting into the next commission percentage bracket. Holy Crap!
Something else that is happening is that my reputation is getting out there. I've gotten two phone calls this week, with people telling me that I came highly recommended and that I'm the only one they'll let touch their hair. I've also had a Walmart associate (who used to go to the high end salon I was a receptionist at) tell me she'll be coming to me....it starts because of our price & the fact they get a discount. It'll end up because I specialize in fine hair.... WOO HOO!!!
Why do I specialize in fine hair?? Because I have a head FULL of it. I understand what it does, it's limitations, how it responds to chemicals, why it will or won't respond to anything you do to it. And, it's GETTING OUT THERE. Which, for me, is exciting. I'm aiming to specialize in three things: Fine hair, long hair, color. And not necessarily in that order!
Some other things I've been doing at work: I've implemented "the proper use of foils" program. Meaning this: There is a plastic box with foils in them. One box for 7 foils, one for 14 foils (two foil specials we offer), partial foil (26 foils) and full foil (52 foils). I've also typed up and created a folder of pricing and explanation to go with it regarding how to charge for these services. I'm trying like HELL to oversimplify the whole process so it's a no-brainer.
What I've found out is Rita isn't charging accordingly. She has a friend that works at another Regis location...a different branch of the company, therefore they price differently. And, because her friend tells her where to poop and what color it should be, she prices like they do at her friend's salon. Which means she's under pricing at our salon. Which means I need to get on her case about it, maybe even calling Tammy & getting her involved in how to properly charge our clients. Which is also why I separated out the foils the way that I did. And I may just get Tammy involved, anyway....Because I'm a snot like that...
This industry is very much feast or famine. I went into this knowing that information. And, I went into this industry knowing there are certain times of the year when it's DEAD....Usually, it's from Labor Day to Thanksgiving, then January to March. We started getting quiet the week of Christmas...I was the only one who made commission, BARELY. The next week, I was the only one who DIDN'T make commission. This week?? I'm $100 away from getting into the next commission percentage bracket. Holy Crap!
Something else that is happening is that my reputation is getting out there. I've gotten two phone calls this week, with people telling me that I came highly recommended and that I'm the only one they'll let touch their hair. I've also had a Walmart associate (who used to go to the high end salon I was a receptionist at) tell me she'll be coming to me....it starts because of our price & the fact they get a discount. It'll end up because I specialize in fine hair.... WOO HOO!!!
Why do I specialize in fine hair?? Because I have a head FULL of it. I understand what it does, it's limitations, how it responds to chemicals, why it will or won't respond to anything you do to it. And, it's GETTING OUT THERE. Which, for me, is exciting. I'm aiming to specialize in three things: Fine hair, long hair, color. And not necessarily in that order!
Some other things I've been doing at work: I've implemented "the proper use of foils" program. Meaning this: There is a plastic box with foils in them. One box for 7 foils, one for 14 foils (two foil specials we offer), partial foil (26 foils) and full foil (52 foils). I've also typed up and created a folder of pricing and explanation to go with it regarding how to charge for these services. I'm trying like HELL to oversimplify the whole process so it's a no-brainer.
What I've found out is Rita isn't charging accordingly. She has a friend that works at another Regis location...a different branch of the company, therefore they price differently. And, because her friend tells her where to poop and what color it should be, she prices like they do at her friend's salon. Which means she's under pricing at our salon. Which means I need to get on her case about it, maybe even calling Tammy & getting her involved in how to properly charge our clients. Which is also why I separated out the foils the way that I did. And I may just get Tammy involved, anyway....Because I'm a snot like that...
Wednesday, January 4, 2012
With a little help from some "friends"
We had an "incident" in the salon the other day. Rita was doing color on a client (a friend, really) and decided to cover her entire head in foils (instead of just doing the method I described for doing a 14 foil process) because, well, she's messy and wants me to tell her what to do, then decide against what I've told her because it's not what she wants to do.
Anyway...Monday was an extremely busy day (I doubled my daily quota, got to go to the bathroom exactly once, and didn't get a lunch). Shortly before 5pm, I finally came up for air and was cleaning up around the salon. This is when I noticed Rita's client's head was COVERED in foils. When I questioned what she was doing, her reply was "Oh, yes, we're still doing 14 foils. But, I didn't like how you described to me how I ought to do this, so I'm doing it this way instead, 'cause I'm kinda messy" (like I didn't already know she's a complete SLOB when it comes to color). I immediately felt my blood pressure RISE.
I finished puttering around the salon, cleaning things up, getting laundry taken care of, making sure there's change for the register, when Rita went into the back room to write down what she had done. That's when I confronted her. "By all that's right and holy, you need to charge her for a full head of foils, plus the two colors, plus her haircut. How do you think we pay for all the foils you just used?? The foil fairy??" I was so angry at her....a complete waste of money she had going on, right there. And, I know that she doesn't care about it. I guarantee you that if I were to ask her "Where do you think the money comes from to pay for our salon supplies??" She'd reply "Ummmmm, I dunno...Regis??" (our parent company). NO, Bozo the Clown, it doesn't. It comes right out of any profit our salon may have. And, I'm too sure, Tammy has an expense sheet portion of her P & L that breaks everything down for her....what is charged for each color, how many foils were done and how much foil was purchased.
So, the end result, on Rita's end?? Well, when I looked briefly at the sales screen, it appears that she charged her friend accordingly. I was so busy yesterday that I didn't have a chance to dig very deeply into her Monday night. I'll be going in a little earlier tomorrow to deal with that part of the program, as well as Mop & Glo the floors to make them shiny again!
The other end result?? I'll be creating, with the help of my "sister" Lisa, a chart to fill out, regarding how much of what has been used, and I've also created a guide to refer to, as to how much of what product needs to be used. Such as how much color & developer to mix to do a retouch, how much to mix for a 7 foil application, etc. There is an awful lot of waste going on in that salon. As manager, it's my job to keep that stuff under control. And, it seems, I've got a big waster of products & supplies on my hands. Sigh...
Anyway...Monday was an extremely busy day (I doubled my daily quota, got to go to the bathroom exactly once, and didn't get a lunch). Shortly before 5pm, I finally came up for air and was cleaning up around the salon. This is when I noticed Rita's client's head was COVERED in foils. When I questioned what she was doing, her reply was "Oh, yes, we're still doing 14 foils. But, I didn't like how you described to me how I ought to do this, so I'm doing it this way instead, 'cause I'm kinda messy" (like I didn't already know she's a complete SLOB when it comes to color). I immediately felt my blood pressure RISE.
I finished puttering around the salon, cleaning things up, getting laundry taken care of, making sure there's change for the register, when Rita went into the back room to write down what she had done. That's when I confronted her. "By all that's right and holy, you need to charge her for a full head of foils, plus the two colors, plus her haircut. How do you think we pay for all the foils you just used?? The foil fairy??" I was so angry at her....a complete waste of money she had going on, right there. And, I know that she doesn't care about it. I guarantee you that if I were to ask her "Where do you think the money comes from to pay for our salon supplies??" She'd reply "Ummmmm, I dunno...Regis??" (our parent company). NO, Bozo the Clown, it doesn't. It comes right out of any profit our salon may have. And, I'm too sure, Tammy has an expense sheet portion of her P & L that breaks everything down for her....what is charged for each color, how many foils were done and how much foil was purchased.
So, the end result, on Rita's end?? Well, when I looked briefly at the sales screen, it appears that she charged her friend accordingly. I was so busy yesterday that I didn't have a chance to dig very deeply into her Monday night. I'll be going in a little earlier tomorrow to deal with that part of the program, as well as Mop & Glo the floors to make them shiny again!
The other end result?? I'll be creating, with the help of my "sister" Lisa, a chart to fill out, regarding how much of what has been used, and I've also created a guide to refer to, as to how much of what product needs to be used. Such as how much color & developer to mix to do a retouch, how much to mix for a 7 foil application, etc. There is an awful lot of waste going on in that salon. As manager, it's my job to keep that stuff under control. And, it seems, I've got a big waster of products & supplies on my hands. Sigh...
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